Solar CBB 1.6 Capacitance Analyzer

[Geaney]

I can't find it either John - the post may go back to 'GF1' when 'absent friends' caused the forum to 'crash and burn' before it was resurrected and put back on a sound footing. If so, even if the post is tucked away somewhere on the forum, the pics would have been lost from the post in any event. I'll post some pics and an explanation under the woodwork section of the forum.

The jig is simple to make from scrap offcuts, and a cheapo DIY router is fine - anything else for such a lightly loaded task is overkill. I keep a cheapo router fixed to the jig all the time, with a 6mm (1/4") straight shanked bit in it ready for use. To cut each slot takes just a few seconds. (In use, the jig is held in a woodturning vice). It would be fine for making a new top for your cabinet.

Hope that helps.

Thanks David, I appreciate you re-posting it. The info will come in very handy indeed.

Cheers, John

[Refugee]

I an doing a Philips one that is slightly more modern and I don't think it has the leakage test either. It has an all steel case so that will be a rub down and a coat of new hammer finish paint. The leakage can be tested with a Megger I have restored earlier that does have a nice wooden case just like your cap tester.

[Geaney]

A quick update and a (probably dumb) question -

I was struggling to find suitable wood for the lid locally so I've ordered some online and it should be here in about a week from now.

I've been looking into making the box joint jig and I have a router question. I have three regular plunge routers (Bosch and DeWalt makes) and they all feature the on/off switch that has to be held on to keep the router running. None of them seem to have a way of locking them so they would keep running when fixed in a router table.

Am I missing something here or do I need a different router that has a means of locking it in the 'on' position?

Cheers, John

[Refugee]

Just put a Tywrap round the switch and use the plug switch to control the tool.

[Geaney]

Just put a Tywrap round the switch and use the plug switch to control the tool.

Yes I was thinking along those lines - wanted to make sure I hadn't missing anything 'obvious'.

Cheers, John

[Yorkie]

I use a cheapo DIY store router for the comb-joint jig which just has an on/off switch, but have a more upmarket more powerful De Walt router which has the type of switch that you refer to John. It's in one of the handles - I have to twist it and hold it on and the moment I let go, it switches off. I guess it's a safety feature - a sort of 'dead man's handle' and means that you can't easily get your hands near the business end of the router with it still running. As has been said, the easiest option would be a tie-wrap to keep the router on all the time, and turn it off at the wall switch when you've cut a row of slots.

As to suitable wood, I guess in your case John, the problem is to find something for the lid that's an acceptable match for the cabinet. I tend to scavenge bits of oak and mahogany from old furniture or flooring offcuts, and cut them down to 1/4 thickness or thereabouts on my bandsaw, then sand them on my belt sander. I use plywood for the bottom (and top too, if it's a lidded box), often used on the rear of old chests of drawers etc.

I finish them with spirit stain and a couple of coats of shellac sanding sealer then paste-wax polish. Time consuming to say the least, but very satisfying nonetheless, and for me, a nice way of blending two complimentary hobbies - electronics and woodworking.

[Geaney]

I ordered up some Cherry online - arrived yesterday - and it seems pretty close. Unfortunately I didn't order enough of it (put it down to flu meds). Oh well.

Finding those 'take apart' hinges is proving difficult. If anyone can suggest likely source I'd be most grateful. I can find large ones but nothing small enough for a box this size.

Cheers, John

[Geaney]

Finally found seem bench time. Made some progress with making a replacement lid. The box itself is not quite square so I'll have to adjust the lid before glue up. I found a clasp that should work - either with the existing half (if it cleans up OK) or using both parts of the new clasp.

Still hunting for small come apart hinges.

Cheers,

John

[AlanBeckett]

John,

Most of the Lift-off hinges that are about are enormous, presumably meant for Doors.
Any idea what they were like originally?
ebay Item 370925961938 is a bit smaller than most.

Alan

[camallison]

There are several at the link below - I put in "Instrument case small lift off hinge" to ebay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid...+off+hinge&_nkw=instrument+case+small+lift+off+hinge&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Colin