Nordmende Norma Luxus

[Joe]

I'd certainly change the AF grid-coupling capacitor. You could leave the rest and see how it goes.

I'm now an avowed member of the "Change the lot" school as early on I tended to leave things as original as possible but found that they't fail after a few weeks' use.

No suggestions about the trim I'm afraid. There was a similar problem with my VHF61 so I just took the remaining one off so both knobs matched.

- Joe

[Bushbaby]

Hi Joe,
Thanks for your reply but you will have to be more specific than 'change the AF grid-coupling capacitor with me' as I am just an infant when it comes to radio repair/restoration.

Best Regards

Rob

[pwdrive]

Any capacitor that connects the anode of one stage to the control grid of the next stage, some types are more vulnerable than others, especially wax types or old Hunts types.

In most domestic radios it's the capacitor that connects the control grid of the audio output valve to the anode of the preceding stage, if this capacitor develops a leak it will put a +ve DC voltage on the control grid, that can result in the output valve drawing to much current, this can result in the valves anode glowing red and the audio output transformer to pass more current than it's designed to and can often result in the transformers failure amongst other things.

I would change it on sight, even the more reliable makes of capacitors in old radios are getting past their best, old tubular ceramic and mica capacitors are more reliable but not always 100% due to their age.

Lawrence.

[Nick]

I use these guys for interesting wire requirements: https://www.wires.co.uk/acatalog/brass.html

They do a bag of mixed brass wire sizes which is useful for stuff like this...

[Bushbaby]

I decided to recap where possible. Its a shame, the old Ero caps seemed ok but just break apart when desoldered. Perhaps their time was up being over 50 years old.

Regards

Rob

[Bushbaby]

Hi all,
I'm stumped having made a faux pas early on in the disassembly of this radio (should have taken a photo - doh!). I've found a loose terminal that I cannot figure out where it was originally connected. I've tried to trace the connection but the original German schematic is not very helpful.

To me (unless I'm mistaken) that the wire wound resistor(??) is connected to the external aerial socket but I cannot see where it terminates. I can supply the schematic if anyone wants to have a look?

Help.

Rob
   
   

[AlanBeckett]

I think you'd better Post the Schematic Rob, or at least an appropriate bit.

Alan

[Bushbaby]

Part schematic attached.

Many thanks

Rob


  NL 1.docx (Size: 143.19 KB / Downloads: 32)

  NL 2.docx (Size: 129.98 KB / Downloads: 29)

[Mark Hennessy]

Hello,

Just to give people the choice, I've made a PDF of the schematic diagram

Hope that helps,

Mark

[Mark Hennessy]

Hi Rob,

Take a look at the second picture in your original post.

I could be wrong, but it looks like the solder tag should go on the bolt on the terminal tag - the one just to the right of the DIN socket. Could that work?

I agree about the schematic. I'm not sure I've located it. As far as I can see from the picture, it's an inductor - but that's a bit of a guess (is it "hollow"?). If so, is there a chance it's L1? Perhaps, assuming that bolt isn't earthed?