Yes Alan, it was some left overs from the last place we were in, I used the cheap stuff up anyways, three coats to get the same obliteration factor as one coat of the Dulux, just got some Dulux magnolia for the two finishing coats, that stuff goes on real well, no problem, I have a few bits of woodwork to do in there now to hang the curtain pole from, also door lining and architrave and a few other bits, once all painted up it will be bench construction time at last.
Decided to leave the concrete floor for a while yet before I put the wooden floor down, so that plus the skirtings etc will have to wait.
You keep worrying me young Lawrence 'cause you keep saying Bench but not Shelves.
Where will you put all the new junk you're bound to buy with all that extra space?
18-07-2013, 05:09 PM (This post was last modified: 18-07-2013, 05:34 PM by pwdrive.)
Alan, originally my other half laid claim to half of the room, her claim has now been relinquished (peacefully)
The plan is to have a shelf above the work bench of the heavy duty type, I hope to build an identical bench on the other wall, also a timber trolly which equals bench hieght to move the more heavy receivers from one bench to another, infact I might use the trolly for servicing some of them once the receiver is out of the cabinet, it could be pushed up to the workbench a la mini breakfast bar style ie: receiver on a mobile platform, soldering iron, meter, bits etc to the side on the main bench, I had a similar arrangement once when I worked as a bench engineer, I will see how it goes.
Lawrence.
Edit: The front and rear walls internally are each approx 3 meters long, the end wall being approx 3.6 meters in length, the benches will fit along the front and rear walls, I need access to an electric meter cubby hole so one bench will be approx 1 meter x 2 meters, the other will be 1 meter x 3 meters, each will have a shelve above it and appart from the knee holes there should be room underneath for a shelve/drawers or whatever.
At the moment there are 12 boat anchors, 3 speakers, a couple of signal generators and a few odds and sods of test gear to find room for so hopefully all will fit.
We left our floors for 2 months before covering them... in this heat I'd have thought that the main worry would be the floor drying too fast and cracking. ..
Hi Nick, the concrete floor was laid long before the walls and roof were up, it went through all that wet weather last year and chief dickspring here forgot to lay a breather membrane (not the DPM, the DPM is under the insulation) over the slab insulation before pouring the concrete, hence taking a while to thoroughly dry, it feels dry but my hunch says moisture is still evaporating, when the weather gets cooler I will put an upturned pyrex plate or a sheet of glass on the slab and see what's happening.
The dining room has a timber floor on battens on concrete, the concrete is bone dry on Insulation and a DPM but the boards never open up, they always seem tight. The suspended floors in the other rooms open and shut a bit through the different seasons.
Re: B & Q paint: from my own experience, I have found that B & Q's own brand of gloss paint to be as good as the well-known makes - and substantially cheaper. I wonder who actually makes that paint which is labelled as B & Q's own brand.
As for the 'low VOC' / water based paint, my experience is that from all manufacturers and all brands, it is simply not up to the job as 'paint'. My daughter's boy-friend is a professional painter & decorator. I asked him about that type of paint. His reaction: "Rubbish! I never use it."
Al, I can't speak for the B & Q gloss has I have never used it, but the primer I had was not good at all, it was an old tin, may be they have improved it since.