05-03-2015, 08:23 PM
When I was a kid, I also had a fascination with cassette decks. I used to really enjoy figuring out how all the various modes worked, and I marvelled at the brains that designed the units. The auto-reverse car mechanisms were especially interesting. I built an old Radiomobile mechanism into a plywood box, and built my own amplification for it, and for a couple of years that was my shed music system. Happy days indeed 
The best advice I can offer is to try and do the same exploration. It might not be immediately obvious, but after a while, I'm sure you'll be able to figure out how the basic PB, FF and RW modes work. Along the way, you might discover a worn rubber idler, a broken or weak spring, or a bent part of the mechanism. While potentially very time-consuming, just remember that this is all part of the enjoyment of the hobby!
Having said that, I guess it depends on personality. I love the opportunity to take time "bonding" with whatever is currently on my bench - even if the original fault was fixed in 5 minutes, I'll still spend an age playing and investigating (which sometimes pays off, as other, more subtle problems can be discovered along the way). But, because that's the sort of person I am (a "reflector", apparently!), I'd never make a living doing repairs. But I'd be happy in my work
Regarding lubrication, the watchword is "sparingly"!
When grease dries up, it can cause all sorts of problems. So I start by removing all traces of the original, and apply a very small amount of new grease. I can't remember what my stuff is, but IIRC it came from RS, and is sold as suitable for this sort of work. I'm sure someone else can suggest something...
You won't need much oil. The capstan is the main element, but these usually have phosphor-bronze bearings that are mostly self-lubricating. A light touch of sewing-machine oil is the usual recommendation.
Many other moving parts are designed to run dry. Often, it's a judgement call as to which are which.
Needless to say, avoid rubber parts and the felt pads in the clutches.
Don't forget to clean the capstan so that all traces of oxide are gone. Likewise the pinch roller (worn or dirty pinch rollers are responsible for a lot of problems). I remove it from the machine and clean it with a lint-free cloth laid flat on the bench, having first applied IPA or similar to the cloth. Keep going until the pinch roller is matt black - it might take a while...
Doing the above requires a lot of dismantling., but today, we do at least have the advantage of digital cameras. Make sure the circlips don't ping off and become lost forever
I hope this "general" advice is of interest, and do please feel free to come back with specific questions (pictures really help!). Either way, keep us updated.
Good luck,
Mark
The best advice I can offer is to try and do the same exploration. It might not be immediately obvious, but after a while, I'm sure you'll be able to figure out how the basic PB, FF and RW modes work. Along the way, you might discover a worn rubber idler, a broken or weak spring, or a bent part of the mechanism. While potentially very time-consuming, just remember that this is all part of the enjoyment of the hobby!
Having said that, I guess it depends on personality. I love the opportunity to take time "bonding" with whatever is currently on my bench - even if the original fault was fixed in 5 minutes, I'll still spend an age playing and investigating (which sometimes pays off, as other, more subtle problems can be discovered along the way). But, because that's the sort of person I am (a "reflector", apparently!), I'd never make a living doing repairs. But I'd be happy in my work
Regarding lubrication, the watchword is "sparingly"!
When grease dries up, it can cause all sorts of problems. So I start by removing all traces of the original, and apply a very small amount of new grease. I can't remember what my stuff is, but IIRC it came from RS, and is sold as suitable for this sort of work. I'm sure someone else can suggest something...
You won't need much oil. The capstan is the main element, but these usually have phosphor-bronze bearings that are mostly self-lubricating. A light touch of sewing-machine oil is the usual recommendation.
Many other moving parts are designed to run dry. Often, it's a judgement call as to which are which.
Needless to say, avoid rubber parts and the felt pads in the clutches.
Don't forget to clean the capstan so that all traces of oxide are gone. Likewise the pinch roller (worn or dirty pinch rollers are responsible for a lot of problems). I remove it from the machine and clean it with a lint-free cloth laid flat on the bench, having first applied IPA or similar to the cloth. Keep going until the pinch roller is matt black - it might take a while...
Doing the above requires a lot of dismantling., but today, we do at least have the advantage of digital cameras. Make sure the circlips don't ping off and become lost forever
I hope this "general" advice is of interest, and do please feel free to come back with specific questions (pictures really help!). Either way, keep us updated.
Good luck,
Mark
