28-07-2015, 04:54 PM
The neutralising condenser is Igranic, and the transformer is a Ferranti type A.F.4. The tuning caps look like Ormond but the only mark on them is DEVICON
This is home built - possibly from a kit - but the layout is a lot like the American sets from that time. The case is extremely well made and 4 valves at that time must have cost a lot. I am going to pair it with a large horn speaker when I get it going as it will look great!
Anyway.......
I replaced the valve holders with more substantial ones as one of the originals was broken.
I took out the 3-4 ohm resistors in the LT+ line as I am going to use 2 volt valves with it.
A few of the soldered hook up wire joints were dodgy so redid them then messed about with a mm. The LT + was fine until I went to the other side of the switch on the front panel - then read 60 Ohm's. So I cleaned up the switch in vinegar and copper shone through - all the metal parts of the switch are copper and a black coating accrued over time must have given the 60 Ohms resistance.
I had another (working) type A.F.4 so put that in.
One of the LW coils will not sit in the holder - the pin is solid - ie not split like all the others so won't compress and fit in the hole - I will worry about fixing that later...
That's it for now - when I get a chance I will attempt a circuit diagram but won't be for a while.
cheers guys
This is home built - possibly from a kit - but the layout is a lot like the American sets from that time. The case is extremely well made and 4 valves at that time must have cost a lot. I am going to pair it with a large horn speaker when I get it going as it will look great!
Anyway.......
I replaced the valve holders with more substantial ones as one of the originals was broken.
I took out the 3-4 ohm resistors in the LT+ line as I am going to use 2 volt valves with it.
A few of the soldered hook up wire joints were dodgy so redid them then messed about with a mm. The LT + was fine until I went to the other side of the switch on the front panel - then read 60 Ohm's. So I cleaned up the switch in vinegar and copper shone through - all the metal parts of the switch are copper and a black coating accrued over time must have given the 60 Ohms resistance.
I had another (working) type A.F.4 so put that in.
One of the LW coils will not sit in the holder - the pin is solid - ie not split like all the others so won't compress and fit in the hole - I will worry about fixing that later...
That's it for now - when I get a chance I will attempt a circuit diagram but won't be for a while.
cheers guys


See if it looks anything like it should





