Just joined

[Todd1956]

Hello. 
I found this place after looking for info on the Trio 9R-59D I had just acquired to use with a QRP CW transmitter I built years back. It was a thread re the ECC85 valve.
The 9R-59D is a drifty and hummy bit of kit and I'm in the process of improving my Trio and am having quite some success. I'd happily share my mods etc.
I also have a tidy 1946 Philco A353 that I have sorted out and many other radios have passed through my hands and workshop over the last few decades.
My background is elecronics tech and I served a 4 year MOD apprenticeship (remember those?) I am just about to retire from 40+years in tech support. 
73 for now
Alan G0KMC

[boater sam]

Welcome to the forum, its very pleasant and friendly here.

Sam.

[Mike Watterson]

Welcome.
Friendly folk here.

I've just spent nearly 3 weeks fixing multiple faults on a 19 year old FT817ND. Some defied belief. Also my stock odf SM resistors and caps (16 years old) are twice the size of most of the parts Yaesu used. I think the oldest Ham TX gear I repaired was a Swan for someone. I also wrestled with cap replacement (under the wave switches) on two valve Eddystones. I'm not going to do another of those!
EI9FEB formerly GI8JTR.

[BusyBee]

Hi Alan,

Welcome.

I'm not so much into repairs as reading, learning about old ideas and experimentation.

Tracy

[Todd1956]

Thank you for the welcomes. I hope I can contribute in some way.
ps SMD baffles me

[Radio Fixer]

Yes! and me Todd. Certain I could get to grips with it but its too big an outlay for equipment.

Welcome !

Gary

[Mike Watterson]

Unless you are doing BGA, a regular bit and iron is fine. With a good mag-lamp!
However leaded SMD IC removal is best done by cutting at body with sharp knife, wipe off dead legs and reflow new IC leads with a dry clean iron, even three leads at once. Optionally glue in place and reflow two diagonal corners first.

I use a hand magnifying lens and bright torch angled suitably to read what it says on laser etched part IDs. The white paint is easier.

[BusyBee]

I find that using a regular bit is fine. I prefer to use the larger sizes of SMD components as I use naked eye and touch rather than a magnifier most of the time (noting that I am generally building new rather than repairing). I learnt my approach through YouTube videos. Some of the techniques almost look cowboy'ish but practice seems to indicate to me that quick and clean with a larger bit is far better than getting finicky and botching it. A small bit has far less heat capacity anyway and would probably not hold the solder for my technique on multi pinned IC's. As usual practice promoting confidence is the key. The use of liquid flux was a revelation and I wouldn't be without it now. I also do diagonal corners with IC's rather than fixing the component down. I use my thumbnail to hold components down while soldering the first joint but you need a good nail and steady hand as the hot iron is millimetres away so I wouldn't recommend it. Good tweezers work with practice. After soldering I use isopropyl with a toothbrush to clean the joints of excess flux then a hand magnifier to inspect each joint. Most issues show up on this inspection.

[Mike Watterson]

Yes, tweezers or small flat screwdriver to hold part in place and reflow one end or a corner.

I have as many tweezers now as trimmers, some from cheap "beauty" sets. Back in 1970s we had foot operated vacuum instead of tweezers.

[Refugee]

When I do SMD I use a stick my favourite being a broken jewellers screwdriver with a bit of an "O" ring glued into the end. I dab it on a smear of grease or petroleum jelly to pick the part out of the tape and place it.