Old Sussex Valve tester

[Bushbaby]

At this stage I wasn't sure where to start this post as I've undertaken no repairs/restoration.
I bought this model which was owned from someone who I dealt with well on the original work to build these about 13/14 years ago who has now passed away.
It does appear that it has been dropped at some point and now needs repair. Perhaps in one respect, this will be a good project to get this working yet again.

Best Regards

Rob

                     

[Bushbaby]

Checking even further, the Lorlin rotary switch adjacent to the low voltage input mini circuit has popped open too. Can anyone advise how to reassemble this or does it require replacement too?

R

[BusyBee]

I'm not sure about a Lorlin and it maybe depends on the exact type but I have taken rotary switches apart before to change their configuration. Maybe yours has just popped open during an accident and will clip back together but it does require a close inspection in case any internals have been displaced. Switches can be fiddly.

Tracy

[Bushbaby]

Its interesting that post #1 3rd pic showing an electrolytic cap that has one side not connected (fallen off from damage??), and its value is 47uF 450v. This is not covered in the original components list but I am wondering if it is C13 connected to to the Anode V switch BUT this is 22uF 400v?? I will have to follow this up to see how the is connected but the value does not appear correct??

[ppppenguin]

I don't have the schematic to hand but it's unlikely that using a 47uF rather than 22uF for what is presumably smoothing or decoupling will make any difference.

[Bushbaby]

I hope these circuit diagrams are of help at all? I will be happy to share the relative documentation as required.

I've looked at the capacitor again closely and it does appear that the end not connected has no solder on it (It just looks like the plain wire of the capacitor - please look again at post #1 pic 3)?? This seems strange as why was it not connected???

Best Regards

Rob

           

[Refugee]

Go for the end of the capacitor with the red wire still connected armed with a continuity beeper and find out where the wire goes.

[Bushbaby]

This is getting weird for me! I've connected a multimeter probe to the soldered pink wire of the cap and touched it with the other probe and of course a noise occurred to demo continuity. It appears that the pink wire is linked to the Canon 50 way connector (see pics). I have tried my best to carefully touch the end of the multimeter probe to the connections...NO response. In the middle row, I placed a thin piece of wire into each mini socket of this level and touched again with the probe...NO response again. Is there a better way of doing this at all?

Thanks

       

[Bushbaby]

Found the connection at last - No 34 noted as Red HT to Anode Volts Selector Switch E. I hope I can figure this out now as I'm not brilliant at all with circuit diagrams to real connections (doh!).
I had tried over and over agin to determine this and even touching the relative externally soldered wire to no34 female connection had no effect at all. In passing a small cable the other way around into the female connector the continuity sound was absolutely bang on.

[Bushbaby]

Learning!!

What an idiot I am - look at the pic below and its obvious that it C13 albeit that originally it was 22uF 400v but now 47uF 450v.

Wiring to the 50 way connector is 11 and 34.