what to do with my shed

[Bushbaby]

Hi All,
I'm not sure what to do about my shed!
Its about 6'6" x 13' and in generally good condition and I think its about 20 years old. I've been think of insulating to use a a workshop.
HOWEVER, there a big areas of rot in the floor around the edges.
I'm not flush with funds at the moment.
Should I unbolt it and replace the floor (its 20 years old!) and its too near to the neighbours fence (side and back) for me to get al of the way around it.
Do I replace it?

I'm stuck what to do??

Regards

Rob

[Jamie-Skinner]

I demolished my £99 11 year old shed today, because of the reason you stated rot in the floor, however mine had just no floor, the rot had got so bad almost half the floor had gone.. I would say don't get rid of it (as my grandad has a 40 year old shed still in exellent condition).. Personally what i'd do is remove the floor (as easy as possible) lay some paving slabs underneath with tarporlin over the top then get some wooden planks and lay that on top then bolt to the shed?

[Skywave]

I'd like to add a few suggestions to Jamie's idea, which overall seems quite a good one.

The floor has rotted out because it has absorbed moisture from the ground beneath. However, the rising moisture will also be drawn into the wooden walls. Then there is rainwater to consider. Perhaps you could arrange the following, which I will readily admit, may not be that easy actually to do.

Fit a damp-proof membrane on the ground underneath the shed so that is extends outside the walls by about 6 inches. Fit paving slabs - or anything similar - on this membrane so that these slabs also extend outside the walls. Then fit a membrane on top of the slabs but run it up the inside of the walls for about 6 inches. Fit / replace wooden floor. The moisture from the ground or rainwater running down the walls now cannot get to the floor

For a 'membrane' I would use roofing felt. Paving slabs are really heavy! Far too heavy for me to man-handle! I'd use those square re-constituted slabs that you get at the D-I-Y store / garden section: they're about 18" X 18" - and a lot easier to handle. I'd also use a sand / cement mortar for pointing them too.

Now as I said, that all sounds fine in theory, but could be difficult to actually do in practice. It might be a sensible alternative simply to dismantle the shed, fit the above 'foundations', then re-assemble the shed. Only you will know what is the best choice in your particular circumstances.

Al.
 
 

[Jamie-Skinner]

Paving slabs surely aren't that heavy? I managed to lumber about 5 the other day (albeit more rolling than lifting)

[AlanBeckett]

That, Jamie, depends on the vintage of your slabs.
I've got some 3' x 2' ones here, which are probably at least 20 years old, which you'd be hard pressed to get off the ground.
I either use a sack truck or 'walk' them.
Alan

[Skywave]

O.K. Jamie! I am talking about full-size paving slabs that you find in the street. I can only deduce that you're much stronger than I am; you're certainly a lot younger - and probably a lot fitter too! For example, carrying a bag of cement from the back of the car for a distance of 10 metres is as far as I can manage before I've got to put it down for a breather! (Pant, pant!) As you may know, I collect comms. radios: I'd get a B40, but for the simple fact that I know I couldn't pick it up! :s

Al.

[Bushbaby]

Hi Al/Jamie
I'm really thinking that the shed is is in a salvagable condition. Its already on a concrete base that I'm going to extend.
I'm in two mind whether to cut out the rotten floor sections or just replace them incorporating a dpm (thanks Al you are correct here) to ensure that damp does not impinge into the floor. At least that will buy a few more years - I really don't think that I have the strength to take it apart and move it/replace the whole floor.

Regards

Rob

[Skywave]

Hi Rob: I see - your shed is already on a concrete base then! In that case, the rot around the floor edges where it meets the walls is probably almost entirely due to rainwater running down the walls, gathering on the concrete - where it can't drain away quickly - and is being drawn into the base of the wooden walls and floor (capilliary attraction). I see that cash is a bit short (I know the feeling :@); perhaps a cheaper (and probably easier) solution would simply be to paint the bottom 6 inches of the walls - inside and out - with bitumous paint. Perhaps do the same with replacement sections of wooden flooring where it meets the walls - coat, say, 6 inches again, both sides. That way, you don't have to replace the entire floor.

Just a thought.

Al.

[Bushbaby]

Hi Al,
Like your thinking - I'm sure it will help if take some pics.

Regards

Rob

[Jamie-Skinner]

CUT THE FLOOR OUT!!!!!!!!! Make sure you add something to link the walls together (the floor is fairly structural) and DO NOT do what I did and put wood over the floor, it just rots even worse!

Yeah, The paving slabs are about 15 years old and are pressed solid, I can lift one but prefer to roll them there a similar size to street paving slabs too..