Weller PU-2D Soldering Station

[Bushbaby]

Hi All,
Some comments and advice would be very helpful to me here.

I have just taken possession of and old but working Weller soldering station model PU-2D which appears to be working although I've not used it in anger just yet. It does appear a strange animal as the iron is not plugged in but wired to terminal posts. It also has and addition cable that is plugged into the side via a banana plug.

I paid £65 inc p&p so I dont know if this was too much, about right or a good deal.

Does anyone have any info about this particular solder station??

Thanks

Rob
   

[Andy M0FYA]

Rob, I guess this is a variant of the Weller iron I swear by. Is the iron itself a TCP1, with a 24v 2amp element? The bits are interchangeable, with the temperature setting indicated by a number stamped on the end of the bit opposite the 'business end'. The bit is iron-plated, so only needs wiping on the wet sponge when hot to clean it. Don't ever be tempted to file the bit, or you'll remove the iron plating and it will then rapidly burn away.
The thermostat works by a magnet being attracted to the end of the bit when it is too cold, releasing as the bit reaches working temperature, operating a switch to supply the 24v to the element.
The banana plug is probably an earth lead for the iron, so you can decide whether to earth it or leave it floating.
My 'base station' is in a 'fore-and-aft' configuration rather than the 'sideways' configuration that this one is. It just contains the mains to 24v transformer.
The older irons used terminal posts for connection, later ones used a miniature Bulgin-style connector.
Parts are getting a bit hard to find, so buy spare bits, element and thermostat if you see them is my advice.
I think £65 was a tad expensive, as it has obviously seen some life!
Andy

[milairuk]

Hi Rob,

Agree with Andy that it looks a bit used ! I have had exactly the same model for 35 years now and it is still going strong. Bits last forever if kept clean, I have just changed one as the first was the same age and getting a bit loose in the barrel !!
Very versatile especially for old sets which need a lot of umph to melt the joints. Rapid still sell the bits http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Equipme...tips-32461 all mine are the suffix 7 ones.
BTW all the valves tested by you are going great except the 6CL6 which I dropped on your kitchen floor !! Went Cathode short on me !

Best regards

John

[Bushbaby]

Thanks guys,
Thanks for the info. I now think I paid a wee bit too much for it but alas, that's down to me. My Aoyue solder station is good but it's only 35watts and it does struggle with old joints unless a touch of hot solder is added first which does seem to defeat the objective of unsoldering!!

Good that your valves are ok John, but 'tis a shame that you lost one.

Regards

Rob

[Andy M0FYA]

Rob, you'll not regret your purchase! It's a most effective iron.
I bought my first one second hand in 1969!
I have three in total now - I've done a bit more research, my base units are PU-1D's which predate yours.
As well as the normal 24v TCP1's, I also have an unused one with a 50v element made specially for the PO for telephone exchange use, I just couldn't resist it.
Andy

[Bushbaby]

Thinking about this it is very appropriate for our hobby. Using vintage tools and equipment to repair vintage equipment. I am pleased that I bought it and I hope it continues to hold a long life.

Thanks again

Rob

[Skywave]

Hi Rob,
Yes, I own one of those. I use it as a 'stand-by' iron. The earlier transformer units have screw terminals for connecting to the iron, so only two wires. The later ones use a 3-pin plug and socket, therefore the iron body is automatically earthed. In mine, I replaced the 2-core cable with a 3-core cable (salvaged from a scrap later model). I fitted a switch in the transformer unit to connect / disconnect the earth to the iron. I reckon that that is what the banana plug 'n' socket is for on yours. There are times when an earthed iron is essential - for example when working on static-sensitive chips - and times when you don't want it earthed - for example, if you are working on a.c. / d.c. equipment (although under those circumstances such an item should always be powered via an isolating transformer).

Two little 'features' to bear in mind.
1. If you discover one day that the bit has gone cold, the chances are that the thermostat switch in the iron handle has failed: they're notorious for doing that. That switch is replaceable - but it's quite a fiddly job! And you'll need a functional soldering iron to do it - so keep another iron handy for such a repair!
The heating coil has been known to go O/C on the ones I've owned - but that is far less common.
2. When you change the bit and refit the barrel sleeve, take care not to over-tighten it on its screw thread. If you do, it can be a real P-I-T-A to subsequently loosen it!

As has been said above, the bits come in various shapes and temperature ranges. The higher the number, the hotter the bit. I think that #8 is the hottest - but there may be a #9. A #6 is about the commonest: suitable for most tasks.

You've got a good general-purpose iron there - even if, IMHO, you paid a tad too much for it.

Al.

[Skywave]

Thinking about this it is very appropriate for our hobby. Using vintage tools and equipment to repair vintage equipment.
Rob

Well, yes . . . maybe. Somewhere I have a wooden-handled soldering iron with a huge chunk of copper at the 'business end' that you put into the gas flame from the cooker to heat it up. I've even got a can of Baker's fluid to use with it as well. I can't see myself using it to remove surface-mounted chips though, since those damn invisible 'components' don't quite qualify as 'vintage' !

No, but seriously . . . I've spent (wasted) far too much time using ancient test equipment and old tools in my hobby and have concluded that doing that is just making the job unnecessarily difficult. But we do this as a hobby, so if, for you, it's fun that way . . . .

Al.

[Yorkie]

Believe it or not, if you went round the Morgan car factory in Malvern, that's exactly what you'd see them doing to solder various body components together such as wings and sills. No spot welding or newfangled power tools - just a little gas soldering oven and chunky copper soldering irons. Back and forth they go to pop the irons back in the oven till the flame glows green, then off they trot to do a bit more.

Same with the guys who make the ash frames for the bodies. Hand planes, compass planes, spokeshaves, sandpaper, glue and screws. Not a power tool in sight. The sheet metal for such things as the wings, bonnets, boots etc is cut with hand tinsnips, and beaten to shape by hand. So when they say 'hand made' it isn't an idle boast.

Well worth a visit.

[Skywave]

Thank you David. Since Malvern is only about a 45 minute drive from here I shall have to see if I can arrange a visit one day.

Al.