Soldering irons and solder

[AndrewLincs]

Having recently blown the dust off my antex 25w soldering iron to change 'that' cap and mains lead on my Fenman, I found it seemed slow to work on the larger joints. I guess it is more suited to PCB work with discrete and surface mount components.

I assume I shall need a larger iron to work on our old valve sets, what would be a suitable size?

I bought lead solder, I don't think anything else was available when I last soldered anything, are there any problems with lead free solder? Does it mix with the solder already in our old equipment?

Any thoughts appreciated.

Regards

Andrew

[DODGERN]

Having recently blown the dust off my antex 25w soldering iron to change 'that' cap and mains lead on my Fenman, I found it seemed slow to work on the larger joints. I guess it is more suited to PCB work with discrete and surface mount components.

I assume I shall need a larger iron to work on our old valve sets, what would be a suitable size?

I bought lead solder, I don't think anything else was available when I last soldered anything, are there any problems with lead free solder? Does it mix with the solder already in our old equipment?

Any thoughts appreciated.

Regards

Andrew

For general work a 25W soldering iron is fine Andrew. For PCB work I sometimes use a 15W iron.
The best types of iron are the temperature controlled ones. These irons maintain a constant temperature and do not cool down on a large solder area.
Keep to your lead based solder as the non-lead types have a much higher melting point. The solder does not flow as well and can lead to poor joints. It is a good idea to buy it now while it is still available. I would not even attempt to mix it with traditional solder.

Roger.

[ppppenguin]

I have used a Weller TCP iron for many years. Once you have used a reasonably powerful iron with temperature control you really don't want to go back. I have never used a Metcal but those who do, swear by them.

[fido]

I must get a better iron at some point. I'm using a very old Antex X25 at the moment but also have a few cheap irons and guns from Lidl or Aldi. The tip of one gun will actually glow red but is made of a material that won't stay tinned. I used to do electrical work on boats so I bought a 12 volt iron but that is hopeless and the slightest breeze will cool it if used outside. I found a small gas powered device works better for such jobs.

[60 oldjohn]

Stick to lead / tin solder, if you have work on modern PB free equipment keep seperate irons or tips and do not try to mix two. PB free = rubbish, Just my opinion. John.

[60 oldjohn]

I should have added, ISTR at one time the aviation industries baned PB free solder due to reliability problems. John.

[tiv48]

my main iron is a weller tcp (best i have had)
a weller gun for heavy work had it 20+ years
i also have a 15 and 25 watt antex
it seens stupid now but the 15 watt antex has the earth connection cut so we could solder on live tvs this was a mad time saveing method of curing dry joints with out having to do a mass resolder job.
rob t

[Joe]

Rob: How have you survived so long? That's another advantage of the gas ones though.

[tiv48]

you should of seen my test bed for washing machine motors|
rob t

[tiv48]

you know me far too well
rob t