24-05-2016, 03:09 PM
(This post was last modified: 24-05-2016, 03:11 PM by boater sam.
Edit Reason: addition
)
I have a few Bush AC11 sets lying around in fairly tidy order and thought I knew all there was to know about them. Wrong!
Decided to have a quick fix of one before I pack up for the summer, if we get one.
Nice clean chassis, original valves set, no signs of ever having been repaired.
I love the way these chassis come out, off with 4 push on knobs,2 plugs take care of speaker, dial lamps and frame aerial, 2 screws to release the cabinet and the fabulous wedge in dial string idea makes it a doddle. No way similar to a Philips!
Set works on all wavebands after a fashion, the usual UL41 gargling when asked to work a bit harder but there is a suddenness about the tuning, almost like an FM set with a bad discriminator capacitor. Very difficult to accurately tune in stations at the high end of the medium wave and they seem to drift away, needing tuning correction.
Quick voltage check reveals low HT with a burnt looking smoothing resistor between the electrolytic reservoir and smoother, and a slightly leaky waxy coupling cap on the UL41 grid as usual.
Change both parts and the HT is about right, but still odd on the tuning and then I noticed that as the tuning faded or drifted off the HT dropped a bit, only 4 to 8 volts or so. I would of expected it to rise as the audio output fell, not the reverse.
While the soldering iron was hot I remover the connections to the UL41 pin 4 which Bush used as a tag for the signal grid stopper and coupling cap. Its a naughty connection and can lead to valve problems, Mullard designated this pin as an internal connection not as no connection and I believe some valves actually have an electrode connected to this pin.
Its the right hand of the 2 red wires on the valve base in the centre of the component picture, the 0.01uf coupling cap is above it on the tag board and the grid stopper resistor is between pin 4 and pin 6 on the chassis. The cooked 10k resistor is the large jasper far right.
So what causes fading audio output and difficulties on finding the best tuning point? What can alter the working conditions of the valves so much that the HT current rises and falls?
Ah. Automatic Volume Control? Maybe so, its a starting point anyway. Shorting down the AVC line to chassis stabilized the HT.
On these sets there are effectively 2 AVC line decoupling caps, a 0.1uf at the frequency changer end and a 0.05uf at the IF valve. Both were a bit leaky. Changing them resolved the drift and fade and made tuning a lot easier.
Now this is a new fault experience to me, I would not of thought that the AVC would have such an effect on reception or on the DC working conditions of the valves.
We live and learn.
Boater Sam.







