At last,some radios to restore!

[Radio Fixer]

Glad its going OK John. Only Philips could make them like that !!

I have a radio where they have welded another 2" onto the end of the chassis but left the original end in place. Plus components on brackets that overhang the front. I had one where the chassis had been braced corner to corner with bicycle spokes.

Gary

[Geaney]

So, definite Philips influence when it comes to the dial mechanism.  The dial is not fitted to the chassis - only to the cab.   The wire cord that connects the cursor to the tuning condenser can only be fitted from the front - which is not possible once the chassis is in the cab.   Genius stuff indeed 

So, I came up with a jig that holds the glass dial to the chassis while I re-strung the cursor mechanism.   There must have been a jig for this during manufacture - no assembly line could afford the time it would take any other way.

It's far from perfect and hopefully I can get it all back in the cab without the cords flying off again!

Cheers,    John

  

[Refugee]

A good close up photo of how the cursor attaches to the cord would be useful for me to help with advice.
I have done a Phillips 353A and that required a tool with a right angled end working from under the set so that I had to have it laying on its back while I attached cursor.

[Radio Fixer]

Yes! very Philips.  In fact some varieties of MonoK have a similar dial mount but the pointer is behind the glass.  In the one I'm doing the glass, pointer, eye tube, dial bulb all go in the "Cap" (their name for the tilt up Bakelite housing) before this gets fitted into the cabinet.  It would be easy but for the Bowden cables each end, for the pointer drive and all the wiring connected to the chassis.  So with 3 hands you are trying to fit it without scratching the cabinet surround whilst manoeuvring the chassis as well, not to mention the loudspeaker.  Not tried it yet but if its the reverse of extraction it isn't going to be easy.

Philips fun 

Gary

[Radio Fixer]

" Working with these vertical tag strips is definitely a challenge ...".

Yes! agreed on that John, the MonoK has them as well that are staked into the chassis. Yours at least look as if they are bolted in place. Just started to rebuild as I totally stripped so building from the bottom up.

Cant really press on too much as I want to get the bandpass coil back on (now rewound and to be collected at NVCF). This has to go back in the can and that is staked into the chassis and held by two tags. I need to keep the top as free as possible as the chassis will have to be balanced on a block of wood, with the help of an assistant, whilst I punch down the tags. Sounds easy but I have some trepidation. Oh! why could they have just used a couple of screws ? But thats Philips for you.

cheers Gary

[Geaney]

A good close up photo of how the cursor attaches to the cord would be useful for me to help with advice.
I have done a Phillips 353A and that required a tool with a right angled end working from under the set so that I had to have it laying on its back while I attached cursor.

This one is a bit of a different arrangement.  The cursor is fitted to a guide that runs along a brass rod which is fixed to the dial itself.   Where the cursor is fitted to this guide there is also a bracket for fitting the cable which then runs off to either side, round the pulleys and winds round the black drum underneath.   I'll try to take some photos that show the arrangement.   The challenge is that the dial and cursor mechanism is fitted to the cab but the cable drum is naturally connected to the chassis.   The drum has to be in position relative to the dial/cursor in order to fit the cable.   There's no way this can be done when the chassis is in the cab - at least that I can see.

Still, it's a fun project!

Cheers,  John

 

[Geaney]

A good close up photo of how the cursor attaches to the cord would be useful for me to help with advice.
I have done a Phillips 353A and that required a tool with a right angled end working from under the set so that I had to have it laying on its back while I attached cursor.

  I'll try to take some photos that show the arrangement.   
 

I'm not sure of these help but hopefully you get the idea of how this goes together.

Cheers,   John
 

[Refugee]

It looks like you are meant to install the dial assembly into the cabinet and add the screw to the pointer fine adjustment with the chassis in place and set it up before fitting the magic eye bracket.

[Geaney]

It looks like you are meant to install the dial assembly into the cabinet and add the screw to the pointer fine adjustment with the chassis in place and set it up before fitting the magic eye bracket.

Alas it is not so straightforward.   The wires go over four pulleys - two are on the dial mechanism and two are on the chassis. There is no way to keep the wires taught if it is not routed around the four pulleys.   Now that I have a working jig sorted out I'll stick with that approach.

Cheers,   John 

[Geaney]

Just to make life interesting - about a week ago I was using the set to listen to shortwave when out of the blue, the cord that drives the tuning condenser snapped.  It felt a bit like watching your car door close with the keys left inside!

So, I had to take the dial and pointer drive mecanism back off, remove and replace the broken cord for the tuning condenser, and then put it back together.  While taking the pointer drive wires back off I broke the retaining lug on the drum - aagh!     

That was more fun than I've had in ages (not)!

So I've got the tuning cap drive back together and I've repaired the broken lug on the drum, but I'm going to test it for quite a while before I put the pointer drive wires back.

At least I got to see the full details how the tuning cap drive works and was able to do more cleaning and lubing of the mechanism (my way of searching for the silver lining )

Work is under way on repairing and re-finishing the cab....more to come on that.

Cheers,   John