Wilmac bandsaw restoration MKII

[Retired]

Hi,

I'm sure you won't regret the decision to change the motor converting to straight single phase 240V Bob. As you stated previously information on these Wilmac band-saws is scarce; I'm not sure if these saws had direct motor drive to the bottom band-wheel through a coupling? Mine was without motor when I bought it just having a large pulley on the bottom band-wheel outer shaft end so I slapped on the 1hp single phase motor with drive belt as a temporary measure and intend to add a more suitable 1/2hp motor at a later date.

You sound to be cornering the saw market Bob now buying an American saw. please be careful because this American saw will possibly have an 110V motor installed? A picture would be appreciated?

Household paint should come off without trouble using paint stripper; my Wilmac was finished in hammered enamel which must have been applied by pouring it on given the thickness and the curtains?

I found using a scraper was very easy to remove paint from the band-wheels and possibly a scraper could be used to remove a lot of the paint from your saw?

Good luck Bob with both your saws; how about looking at lathes next on eBay?

Kind regards, Col.

[robert the violinist]

Hi Col,
I think the way mine was is original but not certain as the flange is missing ,but the motor went straight though the bottom casting hole and the wheel attached to the shaft. another reason i think so is that the motor has a cast foot attached which i saw somewhere bolted to a cast iron base (also missing) Heres a couple of photos .
The American saw has the original motor from the saw manufacturer with nameplate and is 220-230v.It just plugs straight in and works perfectly despite being only 1/3HP.
A photo of the saw also showing the substantial casting (must be twice the weight of the Wilmac despite being also a 12" wheel saw) . The paint job is awful ,painting the nuts bolts and everything in site.
The stand and everything appears original,i think a great find.
Bob

[robert the violinist]

Col,
what sort of flange bearings do i need to use,if i bought some 20mm shaft material would the shaft be a fit for a 20mm bore flange bearing?? As i mentioned my casting is different than yours the big hole for the shaft assembly is bevelled to almost zero from the motor side. Also the webbing on mine(which yours doesnt have ) limits the overall diameter of flange bearing i can use. Something like 70-75 mm diameter.
Thanks Bob

[AlanBeckett]

If you buy a piece of (20mm) Silver Steel it will be ground to 20mm.
The ID of Bearings is very accurate as well.
Have a look on here - http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/ - bottom left.

Alan

[robert the violinist]

If you buy a piece of (20mm) Silver Steel it will be ground to 20mm.
The ID of Bearings is very accurate as well.
Have a look on here - http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/ - bottom left.

Alan

Hi Alan, Thanks, i think what im trying to get at is when it says bore size of the bearing,ie 20mm is it 20mm or a few thou. over . So would they have to be pushed on to fit on a 20mm ground steel bar .
Bob

[AlanBeckett]

Bob,

It's 20mm, give or take a Gnat's. They really are very accurate.

Alan

[Retired]

Hi,

The American saw actually looks better than the Wilmac? Good news as well to have it already on 240V.

I didn't bother with ground mild steel or silver steel to make my main shaft from Bob I simply used BMS and found it to be a close enough fit in the bearing bore for this application; each bearing has two grub screws so the shaft will be securely located.

If you are using 20mm shafting Bob then please check with the bearing supplier for maximum flange size; mine are 85mm. The webbing can be reduced using an angle grinder?

I used 3/4" flanged bearings such as these with 3/4" dia BMS for the shaft; this needed reducing to fit the bottom wheel bore which I believe was 5/8" and a key-way was cut.

http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/3_4inch_4_B...RHP-1834-p

This is just an example but these flanged bearings are readily available without breaking the bank; don't forget you will need a pulley with a matching bore to suit the shaft you use?

Kind regards, Col.

[robert the violinist]

Thanks, what size pulley do i need to give the right speed , i`ll probably be just using a 1ph 1750 rpm ? motor? Do i need to buy a pulley and a taper bush with a 20mm bore?

[Retired]

Hi,

When it comes to speed using pulleys and a motor Bob there are a number of variables so it's not straightforward at all. You mention a single phase motor at 1,750rpm? The usual speed is 1,425rpm. An 1/2hp motor is plenty big enough. Then you will need a pulley on the motor and another pulley on the main-shaft giving a further choice of speeds? The diameter of the band-wheel also plays an important part. I'll check what my Wilmac is set up with and get back to you. With saws whether band or circular there is an optimum speed for the blade; our Wilmac band-saws will not cut metal because they run much too fast but are perfect for cutting timber. Again I'll check and get back to you.

Regarding buying pulleys; firstly you need to work out pulley dimensions to match the motor and the blade speed you want to achieve. SPZ pulleys and belt are fine for the Wilmac and come in lots of different sizes having assorted taper inserts to suit the shafts. For a 20mm shaft yes you would ask for a 20mm taper insert.

For those unfamiliar with these pulleys having the taper insert; two grub screws are supplied and it will be found that two tapped holes will line up perfectly between taper and pulley allowing the grub screws to be nipped up tightly which is straightforward enough but when it comes to removing one of these pulleys this is where a novice can struggle. Remove the two grub screws and it will be seen there is a third threaded hole; insert and tighten one of the grub screws into this third hole and it will break the taper lock very easily allowing the taper and pulley to be withdraw; easy once known but if not known then removing one of these pulleys is a real pain.

Kind regards, Col.

[Alan Douglas]

1750 rpm sounds like a 4-pole motor on 60Hz.

Is there a brand name on the blue saw? I don't recall ever seeing one like that.