Huanyang VFD remote controls.

[Retired]

Hi,

Over the past week I've been playing around with my Huanyang 2.2KW Inverter (VFD). I bought this VFD a few months ago through eBay brand new and at a very reasonable price. I wanted to modify my Jubilee woodturning lathe by installing a top quality Brooks inverter rated 1.1KW 3 phase 220V motor. The motor installation was straightforward and as the VFD gives infinitely variable speed between zero and maximum rpm a single SPZ pulley could be used on the motor. These VFD's are excellent value for money and are so useful.

Initial VFD/Jubilee connections were very easy and the lathe was quickly set up on manual control through the VFD. Power is supplied through a standard 13A three pin fused plug at a wall socket into VFD R&S terminals with Earth going to the Earth symbol terminal (No9).

Connection from the VFD to the motor was done using the UVW terminals on both Motor and VFD with the motor Earth going again to No9 which I used as a common Earth.

Not being familiar to setting up a VFD I struggled a bit setting the VFD parameters but eventually found my way around without destroying anything. Run and Stop controls obviously start and stop the motor. To save a novice spending ages as I have done here is what worked for me on initial power up. Once the VFD had been connected to both power and motor I could then concentrate on setting parameters. Pressing PRGM displays the PD (Parameter) numbers and as usual I did the job the hard way; it took forever using the up/down arrow keys to enter the numbers and only yesterday I found out how to use the (Disp) Shift key? This key is located bottom left on my VFD pad identified with a pair of arrows. Pressing this shift key skips the flashing PD display one place at a time but at each position the up/down arrow keys are used; this is so simple and easily missed; I missed it?

I won't go into the basic settings for manual control at the keypad on the VFD but I hope to add information on setting up basic remote controls for speed; start/stop/ forward and reverse which I think are all I need for my Jubilee but I might also add an additional start/stop latching button control to save fiddling around with the toggle switch but the toggle switch does work and is needed for forward/reverse.

I've spent hours browsing the web for Huanyang remote control information and I'm indebted to one poster on a forum for his information on how to connect a speed control pot. With the VFD fully connected and working I needed a 10K linear Mono Potentiometer and a toggle switch giving on/off/on facilities. I'll cover the speed control firstly;

This is how I set up my 2.2KW VFD. Connect both ends of the speed pot across ACM and 10V on the top row of connectors doesn't matter at this point which connects to which and connect the wiper of the pot(middle connector) to V1 on the bottom row of connectors.
I needed to set PD072 to 400HZ. Set PD070 to 0 for 0-10V setting. Set PD002 to 1 for external speed control.

Both PD072 7 PD070 were already set so didn't require re-setting and just for fun I overlooked the PD002 setting which as is usual with my luck was the one which did need re-setting I wondered why it didn't work? Once PD002 was re-set the pot worked fine and it was wonderful to be able to run the lathe at any speed from stop up to full speed by simply turning the pot knob. I did however quickly notice the pot only had a small section of its rotation in use in fact I thought perhaps a 5K Linear pot might give a larger rotation but thinking about it Huanyang recommend using a 10K linear pot and as both ends of the pot are connected I think I'll leave the 10K pot in place; it's easy to play around with these VFD's and quickly cause expensive damage; I'll leave well alone having got the speed control working.

With the speed control sorted I thought that wasn't too bad so once again browsed the web for further information on how to connect up for Start/Stop and Forward/Reverse functions. Lots of guys had sorted this out on their machines but unfortunately didn't add how they had accomplished it? This left the manual to decipher?

Bron and I had a trip over to Barnsley to Maplins and there bought a 10A toggle switch giving on/off/on switching latching in each position. At 10A the switch is way over the top but at around £3.50 it would last forever in this application.

In the manual there are two circuit diagrams related to remote switching for Forward/Reverse. Circuit No2 looked so easy and I could understand it but as the connections are stated as D1/D2/DCM I quickly hit a brick wall; my VFD had the DCM terminal clearly marked but where were the D1/D2 terminals? These must be the For/Rev terminals? It doesn't take much to derail a novice.

The toggle switch was connected to For/Rev with its centre position connected to DCM. The Parameters were adjusted accordingly and at power up I had Forward plus Start/Stop whilst retaining speed control through the pot; some progress but where was reverse? I could now start and stop the lathe using the toggle switch; in the middle position the lathe was at stop but switching to Forward set the lathe in motion. I was very pleased with this. I didn't really need reverse so knocked off for tea time. Not succeeding with Reverse started to niggle a bit so I studied the manual more closely and wondered if the problem was nothing more than having to reset some parameters; I reset the parameters to circuit No1 and WOW; now I had everything working as I wanted them to work. Here are the Toggle switch connections;

One end of the toggle switch goes to "For" the other end to "Rev" (top row) and the toggle centre goes to DCM (bottom row).

The parameters need adjusting to; PD001 = 1 For external control. PD044 = 02 for Forward rotation. PD045 = 03 for reverse rotation. PD046 = 04 for stop.

Additional notes from the manual; Action description; When triggering FOR (D1) the VFD will rotate forward. When triggering REV (D2) the VFD with rotate reverse. When pressing stop the VFD will stop (middle position on toggle switch).

It's also important to set the "jumper" at VI/VR to the 1&2 setting as shown in the circuit diagram.

As mentioned earlier I would like to add a push button control for Start/Stop rather than using the toggle switch; I have a decent latching button control and I'll try adding this in series with the toggle switch centre connection; I'm sure it will work but as yet not tried it. Using the button means I can leave the toggle switch in Forward or Reverse function.

Hopefully this long winded but comprehensive information will be of use to others wishing to add a VFD (Huanyang) to their machine saving them many hours of researching. I'm certainly no VFD expert but the above works for me whilst I give no guarantees etc or am liable for any mistakes or damage should any such occurrences happen; these notes are for information only and I accept no liability whatsoever.

Having got the VFD working as I want it to with remote controls I now have another problem; where to site the VFD unit away from dust? I'll add updates as progress is made but at least there is now a lot of information in one place?

I tried drawing a circuit diagram using "Paint" but gave up in despair resorting to using Emachineshop CAD; Not the best circuit drawing but I wish it had been available to me a week or so ago?

Kind regards, Col.


  Huanyang 2.2 VFD remote controls..doc (Size: 109.5 KB / Downloads: 405)

[Refugee]

It sounds like there are enough settings in the menu that there is quite likely to be one that will set the range of the pot in order to open it out for you.
It will be called something like input offset.

[Retired]

Hi,

Thanks for your reply Refugee. I've been having a good look at the Huanyang manual but so far I've not spotted anything similar to what you suggest.

It being a wood lathe speed isn't critical and at full speed the display reads 2028 rpm. This is fast enough for most needs although on direct manual control I have run the motor at over 10,000 rpm with one of the parameters set at 400 Hz. Now with remote control and speed being controlled through the pot maximum speed appears to be the 2028 rpm shown? I've tried adjusting the various frequency parameters and can get the lathe to run slower but not to exceed the 2028 rpm which appears governed by the pot even though the parameter is set to 400 Hz.

My major problem now is to find a location for the VFD to remove it from dust or to design an enclosure fitted with suitable filters. Although I'm not actually doing any turning setting up the lathe and workshop is interesting and keeping me busy.

http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/general-el...2-2-a.html

Above is the site I obtained the pot connection details from and many thanks to Web Goblin #2 for posting them; the information was most useful and worked a treat.

When I'm trying something new I can spend hours browsing the web for information as in this case of remotely wiring the VFD so I thought I would add a bit more information hopefully to help other novices.

The Jubilee runs very sweetly and I've prepared a stock of blanks to use for turning small lidded wooden boxes during winter.

Kind regards, Col.

       

[Retired]

Hi,

What a busy week I've just enjoyed. I already had a stock of heavy gauge steel sheet so decided to use some of this to make a new metal enclosure for the VFD in order to separate it from dust and debris. This steel sheet was too thick to cut with tin shears and after a couple of cuts had been made on the big Startrite bandsaw the band started to complain as it was shedding teeth. Not wanting to use a hacksaw I resorted to using the angle grinder which is my least favourite power tool but its effective; with ear muffs and gloves worn for protection the grinder produced a big display of red hot sparks.

The sheets were large enough to cut down for each panel but not large enough to bend so an angle iron framework was cut and welded. I used offcuts throughout; the front frame was made from 1" angle the rest from 1.5" angle. Care was taken to align the angle iron during welding and making the frame was a time consuming job. Each panel in turn was fully welded to seal all the joints. I was making it up as I went along; the manual gives minimum air spacing for the VFD so anything larger would be acceptable; I knew I wanted the enclosure to have some kind of air filter to the bottom and at first I considered adding a simple sheet filter but left this alone whilst I gave it more thought. The top of the enclosure would be openly vented but covered by an extended cowl; this cowl would allow the VFD fan to exhaust warm air freely but prevent dust and debris from entering the enclosure. The cowl was made 1/2" larger all around but also would have a 1" deep lip folded so the cowl was cut out an extra 3" longer and 3" wider than the enclosure top in effect I was adding the cowl which would be raised 1/2" using machine screws and nuts for simplicity. I copied the cowl idea from the drip proof cowls which used to be fitted to some motors.

The dimensions I settled with are; 16.5" maximum height; 10.5" wide and 8" deep. The cowl dimensions 11.5" x 9.5" plus an extra inch all around for the folded lip height excluding the filter.

The welding was straightforward but a bit time consuming using my 140A SIP arc welder. With the welds completed the angle grinder fettled the joints. All during this I kept thinking about how to filter the air supply to the VFD and was even thinking about this in bed at night then suddenly it occurred to me to use a car engine air filter? I browsed eBay for a suitable filter and at around £8.50 each they were cheap enough but I thought why not pop into our local auto accessory store? Visiting the store I bought a nice big air filter for under £6 so all I now had to do was to install it. This sounds easy enough but how the heck can I cut a large hole in a thick sheet of steel? After considerable thought I remembered I had recently bought a brand new Erbauer jigsaw which came with a selection of blades including metal cutting blades so I thought I'd give it a try? I drilled a hole in the waste to accept the blade and was amazed just how easy it was to cut the large hole with the saw set at number two on the speed control; a file cleaned the edges of the hole so now I needed means of securing the filter.

Having lathes is a huge asset and I soon turned an 18mm thick MDF air filter base support adding a location rebate; the support was turned at maximum diameter to suit the diameter of the filter and the rebate was turned to suit the inner diameter of the filter thereby locating it in position; a central hole was added at 6mm clearance. A steel square off-cut was cut to length and tapped on centre at 6mm this in turn was tack welded to the inner bottom panel. Next a suitable length of steel rod was cut and a 6mm die run down adding a thread at each end; a washer and wing nut would secure the filter in position. Now at last it was all coming together. Next job was to sort out a front door and how to attach it? I settled on a plain sheet of the thick steel sheet and decided to use a stainless steel piano hinge kindly given to me by a friend ages ago for mounting the door. A lot of time was spent in aligning the hinge because I wanted the door to be as air tight as possible. Access to the VFD wouldn't be needed once it was installed because of the remote controls so the door could be screwed closed. I had 20mm cable glands in stock so used the big drill press to bore 18mm diameter holes then opened the holes using a file which was hard work. Short lengths of 1.5" angle iron were cut and drilled then welded into place as mounting brackets ensuring these protruded sufficiently to clear the cowl overhang.

The top cowl at first posed a problem because I wanted to fold the four edges over at 1" deep each? What a pure stroke of luck when my chum David (Yorkie) sent me an email asking if I had use of a metal folder he was about to dispose of; boy did I have use for it and what perfect timing. David very generously gave me not only the metal folder seen below in the picture but also very kindly gave me a lot of very useful kit and a lovely selection of wooden turning blanks ready for when I start using the lathe during winter; thank you so much David. I soon had the metal folder in action; two edges were simple to bend but the other two required the metal to be packed out which wasn't a problem after a bit of thought as to what I wanted to achieve.

       

The weather was perfect and allowed me to use the big compressor and spray gun. I had a look around and found a tin containing spraying grey primer which was only about 12 years old and being tight I thought this would be ideal so opened the tin and gave the paint a very good stirring using a screwdriver adding thinners. I set everything up and wearing my respirator soon blasted the grey primer on. I was surprised by the vast cloud of fumes this kicked up; it's ages since I used the spray gun and it being an HVLP type I didn't recall it ever causing such a fog? Whoops I had forgotten to adjust the compressor air pressure. it was running in excess of 100psi; WOW I'm not surprised it caused so much fog. When the fog cleared I was appalled as I inspected the newly painted surfaces; it looked like I had applied anti-slip paint as it was absolutely covered in bits; these bits obviously were lumps of paint which had not thinned out. Not to worry though; the paint quickly dried and was flatted with abrasive paper. Next job was to filter the paint then try again which was a success; the few lumps this time were quickly flatted.

I didn't have any paint for the top coat so nothing for it but to get my hand in my pocket and buy some. I didn't want this enclosure to stand out or contrast with the red workshop walls so I took along a paint sample which I had used whilst painting the walls and bought half litre of gloss cellulose getting the guy to match the colour. Once again I set everything up for spraying but what a shock as soon as the top coat was applied; it looked extremely bright to me and I'm colour blind? Not wanting to drive over to Dewsbury again and spend another £11 I'll live with the colour.

At last I now had a heavy metal VFD enclosure which would withstand a nuclear explosion; it's heavy. The door whilst being a good fit would still admit dust so the door and frame were drilled and tapped at 5mm to accept machine screws which would pull the door into close contact. Mounting the enclosure to the wall was easy enough but the new cable glands were too big and needed packing out in order to seal and grip the cables. I had taken careful details of the connections so now all that was needed was to connect up. On Friday morning I got out of bed early intending to get into the workshop but problems with the post office and sending emails took care of the morning. After dinner though I spent a lot of time running the cables and checking and double checking each connection that it was in the right place and tight. Just before tea time I was ready to power up and with great anticipation pressed the start button; the lathe was very ill indeed with its mandrel revolving in jerks and very little control from the speed pot; after concentrating so hard and feeling tired I walked out of the workshop in disgust; I knew if I started in this frame of mind to resolve the problem I would most likely make it a whole lot worse and these VFD's are easily destroyed by playing around with them by a novice?

In bed I was awake thinking about the problem and knowing I had gone to such lengths with all the connections was certain the problem lay elsewhere? I knew the VFD and lathe both worked well together because I had already had them connected but since installing the enclosure I added a remote start/stop button control and also an emergency stop button control but apart from these nothing else had been changed; what a dilemma? I was in the workshop very early yesterday morning; I ignored the computer and I was on a mission being fully charged ready to tackle anything and full of determination. Five minutes later I had a big smile on my face and the lathe was once again running perfectly but this time with a proper start/stop and an emergency stop control added. Thinking about the problem in bed I considered all kinds of weird problems such as the 3 phase and signal cables running in close proximity cross talking? The new controls could also be at fault with possibly a faulty switch contact or even the pot might have been cooked during soldering the connections? The fault however was extremely simple to resolve; even though I had taken so long to ensure everything was correctly connected I still managed to cross a pair a pot connections wiring the end connector to the wiper and the wiper to the end connector; ah well I'm only a novice at this sort of thing but what a huge relief to have the lathe running and now with the new remote controls fully working.

At the lathe I had used an old electric motor "T" box as a small enclosure for the new remote controls; I've had this box since I scrapped a D132 W series Book Motor for the laminations whilst I was installing the three phase so at last it has come in very handy; I cleaned the box up and drilled the relevant holes then sprayed it with undercoat and gloss black using spray cans; I also used these cans to spray the MDF filter support. Labels were printed using the computer and the electrical "danger" logo was found by browsing the web then transferring the logo into "Paint" allowing me to play around with its size before printing off. Sellotape was added to the front of the labels for protection and Bron kindly gave me some double sided self adhesive tape to attach the labels with.

I hope this information is of use because a lot of my time was taken up browsing the web for remote control connections and the enclosure design although looking simple now completed took quite a bit of sorting out in trying to exclude dust but allow clean cooling air to enter.

The Emergency stop control button stops the lathe in three seconds and really isn't needed but it is big enough to hit if something untoward does happen. (Please kindly note this addition Big Al) I believe there is an emergency stop parameter added to the VFD but for my own safety and wishing to retain my good looks I certainly don't want to be near any lathe spinning at 2,000 or 3,000rpm with a screwed heavy chuck installed which stops dead; in such a situation the chuck could remove my head as it breaks free? The start/stop and emergency stop controls are simply wired in series between the VFD DCM and toggle switch centre connections but anyone having problems please just ask and I'll be happy to add the circuit diagram.

With the enclosure in position the paint colour actually blends in quite well; it is still bright but a perfect colour match to the walls; it looks different because the cellulose is gloss so the light hits it differently; I'm happy with it.

Kind regards, Col.

                               

[AlanBeckett]

Very swish young Col, and yes I am a big fan of 'Mushroom-headed Stop Buttons' within easy reach. You just never know when you'll need it.
Perhaps you should Post a Diagram for posterity.
The usual way to seal the Door is to put a strip of Double-sided Foam Tape round the edge and then screw it down.
Poor VFD, he's all shut in. You should have made a little window

Alan

[Retired]

Hi,

Thanks Big Al; yes its a shame to hide the VFD away. I had considered using door seal but managed to obtain a good seal without.

Adding the two push buttons for emergency stop and start/stop was easy enough but perhaps would be difficult for a novice so below is the simple circuit. There is nothing too difficult in the connections and using one or both buttons works but the connecting wire between the VFD DCM and toggle switch will need removing.

This arrangement suits me but is a bit over the top because simply adding the emergency stop control will start/stop the lathe as will using the toggle switch in the centre position. I wasn't too happy just relying on the toggle switch because unless a mechanical stop could be fitted it would be possible to flick the switch accidentally immediately changing rotation which I doubt either the motor or VFD would enjoy?

I hope the addition to the original diagram helps?

If I decide to use one of these VFD's on my Myford lathe installation will be a doddle now I have done the job once.

Kind regards, Col.

   

[AlanBeckett]

I had considered using door seal but managed to obtain a good seal without.

I doubt it young Col as the VFD Fan will be putting negative Pressure inside the enclosure. I've had nightmares in the past trying to seal Enclosures against it. However, I don't think a bit of dust will do it any great harm. I expect it's already pretty well sealed against Dust ingress.

Alan

[Retired]

Hi,

Thanks Big Al. My idea is that any small amount of dust entering through the door joint will be carried up through the top opening by the air current produced by the VFD fan? The new filter is big enough to supply a large air flow compared to a small air leak through the door?

As you say though a bit of dust won't hurt but I wanted to guard against the VFD suffering clouds of dust which would ultimately destroy it. The dust created is a serious problem when using a woodturning lathe compared to a metal turning lathe. I'm confident that by enclosing the VFD in this enclosure the VFD will be assured a long and happy life with me.

One thing I did take into account is air cooling of the VFD and if I notice any signs of the VFD heating up I've allowed generous space within the top of the enclosure to add an extra more powerful extractor fan.

You've seen our bungalow and workshop Alan so you will understand limitations in finding a suitable location; I could have mounted the VFD on the wall in the adjacent room but this would have meant running lots of cable at over 18' long hence I've gone to all this time and trouble; I say trouble but in fact I've enjoyed metal bashing over the last few days and it got me off my backside.

These VFD's are brilliant bits of kit and have an enormous number of adjustment parameters but my needs are simple; as long as the lathe can be started and stopped; reversed and variable speed controlled I'm happy. The reverse function possibly will never get used but I've read that some timbers respond well to being reversed during sanding but time will tell for me at least it is now a working option.

Kind regards, Col.