25-04-2012, 11:50 PM
Hi All,
As you know, I pretend to know a thing or two about amplifiers. It's not true really, and so I thought I should share this with you - just so you know that even so-called experts sometimes get caught out
Many Hacker sets are noisy at minimum/low volume. The noise is quite distinctive - rather than the hissing you might expect, this is more of a rumble. That's the first clue - this is "shot noise", or 1/f noise, rather than the white noise that thermal noise causes. Thermal noise is normally built into the design, others are to some small extent, but normally indicate a faulty component.
In my experience, the "Lockfit" transistors that were widely used in the 1970s are relatively unreliable, and are prime candidates for causing this problem. Next up, the DC offset preset can very occasionally cause the same symptom, and it should be cleaned and wiggled first, because that's cheapest
. Finally, if you still have noise after changing the first couple of transistors, you have to think about changing carbon composition resistors...
Anyway, the set in question was a Hunter RP38A - although Hacker used very very similar designs in most of their sets. I've attached the schematic.
So, wiggle RV3 - this helps a bit. Good. Change T1 for a BC108. Yes, I know the schematic says BC108, but invariably they come with BC148. Guess the Lockfits were cheaper than BC108s, but BC108s are definitely more reliable...
Normally, this would fix it, but of course, it makes no difference. No matter - sometimes T2 can play up. Not in this case :-(
Consider T3. After all, it's a dreaded Lockfit. But as you move forward through an amplifier, the later transistors have less opportunity to contribute. Still, the drawer full of transistors is still on the bench, so in goes a BCYsomething. No difference.
Damn! Looking at the pile of innocent Lockfits, I say "sorry to have suspected you all", and back they go. What could be causing this? Then a distant memory flickers, and I remember that R1 (150K) has caused problems in the past. Though not this time, obviously :-(
Time to panic. Consider changing the remaining transistors, but know that's crazy, so decide to park that idea. Consider doing a blanket swap of all the resistors, but that's similarly silly - yes, it's almost certainly one of them, but I wouldn't learn anything from that approach, and it's not exactly sympathetic. Oh well, in the absence of a better plan, decide it's time to play with test gear. That'll make me feel better
I have an ancient Lindos LA1, and while it's not much use for serious R&D, it's perfect for old radios; I use it a lot for this sort of thing. I'm able to determine that the noise from this set is more than 10dB worse than other sets I can quickly lay my hands on, so not allowed to give up yet!
In a negative feedback circuit, you have a chicken and egg situation, and as it's impossible to break the loop outside of Spice, it's nearly impossible to narrow down a faulty component by measurements. This problem was my excuse for spending ages blankly staring into middle distance for an hour or so...
This amplifier has two negative feedback loops. All stages have DC feedback, but the AC feedback only encompasses T2 onwards. If it didn't, the tone controls wouldn't work!
And, there was a strong clue - the LF "shot" noise was strongly affected by the bass control, suggesting it was indeed coming from the first stage. Putting the Lindos on the top if C3 and C8 proved the caps were OK, and not passing noise into the first stage. So, suspects are T1, R1, R3, R4, and possibly R5. That's more like it - I've already changed T1 and R1, and it's probably not R5. Change R3 and R4, and Bingo! The set is 5dB quieter than my known-good example! At last!
It can't be both of these, surely, so replace R3 and the noise is back. Put the replacement back in place, and everything is good again. Put the original R4 back in place, and no change. Fine, that one can stay. Originality and all that... Finally, for laughs, I revisit R1, but the original component does raise the noise floor a bit, 3 or 4dB. That stays out then...
This should have taken a lot less time, and I'm not sure how much I've really learnt, because most people know that carbon composition resistors do go noisy, but it's a random thing, and the chances of another R3 failure are quite slim. Still, it does one good to be caught out by a "simple" fault from time to time :-)
The resistor in question is one of those brown box ones, with two wires emerging from one end, and 4 strips painted on the other. Widely used in the early '70s - no idea what they're called...
Anyway, amplifier is all back together and set up, just need to do the RF alignment (as always for a Hacker, it seems). Another excuse to play with test gear, but that can wait until tomorrow.
Hope this is of interest, and apologies to Lockfits everywhere
Mark
As you know, I pretend to know a thing or two about amplifiers. It's not true really, and so I thought I should share this with you - just so you know that even so-called experts sometimes get caught out

Many Hacker sets are noisy at minimum/low volume. The noise is quite distinctive - rather than the hissing you might expect, this is more of a rumble. That's the first clue - this is "shot noise", or 1/f noise, rather than the white noise that thermal noise causes. Thermal noise is normally built into the design, others are to some small extent, but normally indicate a faulty component.
In my experience, the "Lockfit" transistors that were widely used in the 1970s are relatively unreliable, and are prime candidates for causing this problem. Next up, the DC offset preset can very occasionally cause the same symptom, and it should be cleaned and wiggled first, because that's cheapest
. Finally, if you still have noise after changing the first couple of transistors, you have to think about changing carbon composition resistors...Anyway, the set in question was a Hunter RP38A - although Hacker used very very similar designs in most of their sets. I've attached the schematic.
So, wiggle RV3 - this helps a bit. Good. Change T1 for a BC108. Yes, I know the schematic says BC108, but invariably they come with BC148. Guess the Lockfits were cheaper than BC108s, but BC108s are definitely more reliable...
Normally, this would fix it, but of course, it makes no difference. No matter - sometimes T2 can play up. Not in this case :-(
Consider T3. After all, it's a dreaded Lockfit. But as you move forward through an amplifier, the later transistors have less opportunity to contribute. Still, the drawer full of transistors is still on the bench, so in goes a BCYsomething. No difference.
Damn! Looking at the pile of innocent Lockfits, I say "sorry to have suspected you all", and back they go. What could be causing this? Then a distant memory flickers, and I remember that R1 (150K) has caused problems in the past. Though not this time, obviously :-(
Time to panic. Consider changing the remaining transistors, but know that's crazy, so decide to park that idea. Consider doing a blanket swap of all the resistors, but that's similarly silly - yes, it's almost certainly one of them, but I wouldn't learn anything from that approach, and it's not exactly sympathetic. Oh well, in the absence of a better plan, decide it's time to play with test gear. That'll make me feel better

I have an ancient Lindos LA1, and while it's not much use for serious R&D, it's perfect for old radios; I use it a lot for this sort of thing. I'm able to determine that the noise from this set is more than 10dB worse than other sets I can quickly lay my hands on, so not allowed to give up yet!
In a negative feedback circuit, you have a chicken and egg situation, and as it's impossible to break the loop outside of Spice, it's nearly impossible to narrow down a faulty component by measurements. This problem was my excuse for spending ages blankly staring into middle distance for an hour or so...
This amplifier has two negative feedback loops. All stages have DC feedback, but the AC feedback only encompasses T2 onwards. If it didn't, the tone controls wouldn't work!
And, there was a strong clue - the LF "shot" noise was strongly affected by the bass control, suggesting it was indeed coming from the first stage. Putting the Lindos on the top if C3 and C8 proved the caps were OK, and not passing noise into the first stage. So, suspects are T1, R1, R3, R4, and possibly R5. That's more like it - I've already changed T1 and R1, and it's probably not R5. Change R3 and R4, and Bingo! The set is 5dB quieter than my known-good example! At last!
It can't be both of these, surely, so replace R3 and the noise is back. Put the replacement back in place, and everything is good again. Put the original R4 back in place, and no change. Fine, that one can stay. Originality and all that... Finally, for laughs, I revisit R1, but the original component does raise the noise floor a bit, 3 or 4dB. That stays out then...
This should have taken a lot less time, and I'm not sure how much I've really learnt, because most people know that carbon composition resistors do go noisy, but it's a random thing, and the chances of another R3 failure are quite slim. Still, it does one good to be caught out by a "simple" fault from time to time :-)
The resistor in question is one of those brown box ones, with two wires emerging from one end, and 4 strips painted on the other. Widely used in the early '70s - no idea what they're called...
Anyway, amplifier is all back together and set up, just need to do the RF alignment (as always for a Hacker, it seems). Another excuse to play with test gear, but that can wait until tomorrow.
Hope this is of interest, and apologies to Lockfits everywhere

Mark







