16-04-2012, 05:38 PM
Today I amused myself by making a TRF radio out of a book I was given for my ninth birthday.
It worked but I can see why this sort of thing put me off as child: if I hadn't got a Bits Box it would have cost a good few bob and been inferior to a radio from PoundLand.
It seemed distinctly temperamental and I could barely breath without upsetting it, though the construction method is asking for dodgy connections, and I soldered the wires to he variable capacitor and pot. The controls have knobs as touching them effected things as well.
When it was tuned in the sound quality was surprisingly good, though for "Crystal Earpiece" read "LM386 and a filleted R600." There was nothing as crude as a battery on the bench either!
- Joe
It worked but I can see why this sort of thing put me off as child: if I hadn't got a Bits Box it would have cost a good few bob and been inferior to a radio from PoundLand.
It seemed distinctly temperamental and I could barely breath without upsetting it, though the construction method is asking for dodgy connections, and I soldered the wires to he variable capacitor and pot. The controls have knobs as touching them effected things as well.
When it was tuned in the sound quality was surprisingly good, though for "Crystal Earpiece" read "LM386 and a filleted R600." There was nothing as crude as a battery on the bench either!
- Joe



Here's what I do: take two pieces of double-sided copper laminate board, typically one 6" x 5", the other 6" x 3". Solder the two 6" sides together at right angles. The narrower piece becomes the 'front panel'; the wider piece becomes the 'chassis'. Drill a number of holes in the front panel first - you can use these holes to mount things like pots., variable caps, switches, etc. For the chassis, simply use point-to-point connections with the chassis as the 0v./ earth point. You can usually arrange the component layout such that those earthing points will give sufficient rigidity to the associated components. Sometimes the use of conventional tag-strip helps: again, the earthing tags of those strips can be soldered direct to the chassis. For critical circuits where unwanted feedback may be a problem, simply solder in additional pieces of copper board to act as screens.




