Restoration Advice

[Steve_P]

Could our restoration experts help here? It's the top of a Pye P76F and although the set now sounds lovely, it has had the bunch of flowers on the top treatment, with the usual result.

What do our cabinet experts advise?

Cheers,

Steve p.

[Yorkie]

The original finish will most likely have been cellulose lacquer applied by spray. Lacquer 'sits' on the veneer and adheres to it, rather than soaking into it, which is why, over time, lacquer will flake off. It looks to me from the pic as though the lacquer on the top has flaked off, revealing the bare veneer, and really, to do a proper job, it would be necessary to remove the rest of the lacquer with a cabinet scraper (not a paint scraper!). Veneer is very thin, so don't be tempted to use sandpaper, particularly on the bend, as you'll soon go through the veneer.

Having removed the lacquer, really, you have three choices, with varying degrees of difficulty. The easiest by far is to use Danish oil, which needs little skill, but unlike lacquer, the oil soaks into the veneer and cures as it dries, and a chemical change takes place. But that is irrevocable - once you've applied the oil, it can't later be removed as it's penetrated the timber. If you leave it to cure for 24 hours or so in a warm room. Apply several coats, leaving each coat to cure, then you can buff it with 00000 grade wire wool, and polish it with paste-wax polish, giving a very pleasing result. The ease of application ad pleasing end result explains why so many take this option.

The second option, having stripped the old lacquer off, would be to apply clear aerosol lacquer, which can be gloss or satin, and would be closer to the original finish. Finally, you could French polish it, and on the topic, the guru is without doubt, Colin - 'Retired', and Joe ('The Pil') has also done quite a bit of French polishing too. Both Colin and Joe have given much useful advice based on their own experiences. Cabinets were not originally French polished, so done properly, it's a considerable enhancement. Take a look at Colin's Bush radio in the gallery to see what can be achieved!!

Best of luck with it Steve,whatever course of action you take. (I guess you could always put a vase of flowers on top to cover it up!)

[AlanBeckett]

Steve,
The solution is entirely sytaightforward now you're driving. Remove the chassis, speaker and dial, put it in the car and take it over to Col
Alan

[Retired]

Hi,

Many thanks for your kind words David; high praise indeed and I hope I can live up to it.

David's advice is excellent and covers a range of finishes from easy to difficult and all have merit.

I think cabinet scraping would be difficult for you Steve so chemical stripper would be the way to go ensuring all the stripper was neutralized before proceeding with whatever finish you decided to use.

One alternative would be to completely strip the works out leaving a totally bare cabinet then bring the cabinet to Golborne and I'll be happy to have a go at it for you. Your call Steve.

Kind regards, Col.

[AlanBeckett]

See, told you :P
Then you could have another trip over to Col's to get it back
Alan

[Joe]

What I would be inclined to do if it were mine would be to give the top a damned good rub with a pan-scrubber (so as not to get bits of steel wool in the speaker) and linseed oil.

Give it a couple of coats of shellac, flatten it off with wet and dry and then give it plenty of wax polish.

Obviously the damage will still show but it won't look like it's just been re-finished.

It a personal thing as to whether you want it as good a possible, factory-fresh or lived in. I tend to go for the latter and if I don't like the result can always go the whole hog later.

- Joe

[Retired]

Hi,

Having had a bit of time to think about this Steve I think you could make a decent restoration job of this by taking your time and stripping using chemical stripper. Clean off and sand then if required apply stain. Let the stain fully dry then give it four good brush coats of shellac; allow to dry in a warm place overnight; lightly flat with 600 grit abrasive paper then apply another four coats of shellac and allow to dry overnight.

This should build up a decent thickness of shellac but the shellac must be applied quickly and as evenly as possible to save considerable time in flatting. Take great care not to cut through to bare timber whilst flatting.

If the shellac is still a bit too thin give it another four coats and allow to dry. With this amount of shellac added leave it well alone for a few days then gently flat with 600 grit lubricated with talcum powder again being extremely careful not to cut through.

Once you have a really nice matt finish have a good look at the surface; if it appears too scratched then carefully flat using finer abrasive paper like 1,000 grit wet or dry. Assuming all is well then go over lightly with "0000" grade wire wool lubricated with liquid paraffin working "with the grain" to finish it off.

This sounds like a lot of work but you only get out what you put in; this method worked a treat recently when I restored a wooden clock case; I found that this gave a beautiful satin finish without having to use a traditional French polishing rubber on the case door.

I'm used to applying shellac with a brush and if it goes on well the flatting can be omitted going straight to using wire wool and liquid paraffin to bring up a surface which is a delight to touch.

I've never tried to re-finish a cabinet that has been oiled onto bare wood as the oil whether Danish or Linseed will penetrate the surface and could possibly bleed through at a later date so I would not take on a previously oiled cabinet.

I've successfully used linseed oil to bring the colour out after staining but only used it sparingly and then buffed it to remove any excess before letting the cabinet stand for a few days. I never use linseed oil on the sole of the French polishing rubber as it can become trapped then bleed out leaving a sticky residue at a later date.

I've included a couple of pictures just for interest and to show something not seen before. I completely re-veneered the clock main case using Australian Walnut veneer and it looks most strange once applied but after staining; French polishing then hand rubbing using 0000 wire wool lubricated with liquid paraffin this is the finish I obtained; the clock main case was originally finished to a mirror gloss but it looked ghastly in this situation hence I experimented and ended up with a lovely satin finish that is much more in keeping and a pure delight to touch.

My offer still stands Steve but I would however like to encourage you to have a go at this restoration as I'm sure you have sufficient determination to see it through and as the process outlined is very basic just requiring time and patience I'm sure you are up to the job.

Whatever you do decide to do Steve good luck; take your time and enjoy yourself. Succeed with this one and you will do more.

Kind regards, Col.

       
New Walnut veneer. Hand rubbed using 0000 wire wool lubricated with liquid paraffin.

[Steve_P]

Well, today I came home from B+Q with..

Gloves, Eye glasses, A mask, some groundsheets, fine wire wool, medium sander, brushes, wood dye of the nearest colour, furniture stripper, tape.

What else do you recommend and how do I start?

Cheers,

Steve P.

[Mark Hennessy]

I'd reiterate Joe's advice - get the loudspeaker as far away from the wire wool as possible. I've seen too many wrecked that way.

Sorry it that's stating the obvious...

[Joe]

Well, today I came home from B+Q with..

Gloves, Eye glasses, A mask,

"Are you a man or a mouse?" :P

Make sure that the chassis and dial glass are well out of harm's way and get stripping.

- Joe