A Developing Shrubbery.

[tiv48]

for a 16mf i use a 22mf but for restufing i would use two 10mf in parallel depends on room and looks
rob t

[Joe]

Here's the temporary thing I've lashed up for now. I'll fit it tomorrow as it's supposed to be cooling down.

       

- Joe

[ucl82]

but that would make a total of 54μF and the UY51's limit is 50μF.

With the tolerances of old electrolytics I wouldn't have thought that would make a huge amount of difference?

[Joe]

When you think about it, it probably wouldn't!

[Joe]

I had this singing sweetly to me for a good while last night so it seems fairly safe to call it finished. I still want to do something about the dial glass but there's no rush for that. I'll either have to find a scan for this style or scan this one and try to titivate it. There's no point doing either until I'm sure that my printer can be trusted.

Final photos

   
New smoothers looking very at home

   
Safety improvements: permanent cord, T315mA fuse, neutral side of switch not connected.

       
Overall views

- Joe

[tiv48]

jo if i still had the shop i would employ you like a shot .your lateral thinking is fantastic
rob t

[Joe]

Thanks, Rob. It would be a nice part of the world to be as well.

- Joe

[Yorkie]

Nice to see someone who recognises that safety should trump originality every time. Far safer to remove the dire two-pin DAC90A plug/socket and to hard wire a new mains lead. One professional restorer who renovates and sells DAC90As with a full warranty, routinely does that as he's just not prepared to sell stuff that doesn't come close to conforming to current safety standards. DAC90As are in any event so commonplace that they're unlikely to ever gain a rarity value which has any bearing on how the set is wired. I'f it's going to be put on a shelf as a museum piece, then fine, but for it to end up in the hands of anyone who doesn't understand the risks associated with a reversible mains lead, as well it might, then even given that the risks are slight, I wouldn't want to be the guy who passed it on as 'fully working'. I'd remove the lead and let it be on the head of whoever recommissions the set.

Just my view - others won't agree, and will often pay a lot of money for an original DAC90A mains plug. (To be pedantic, it's not a plug - it's actually a female socket on the lead - the male plug is on the set).

Incidentally, the BVWS sells exact replacement twin electrolytics for the DAC90A.

David

[Joe]

To be truthful, fitting a proper lead was in part dictated by not having another connector and not being prepared to folk out for one. As you say, it isn't just your safety that matters - it's playing now with no back on but I know not to go poking about inside.

Hope you're having a nice break.

- Joe

[Brianc]

You're absolutely right David. Basic safety is vital and in AC/DC sets this must involve connection of the neutral to the chassis. I always either fix the mains lead or mount a polarised socket. For the TV22 TV for example, I remove the two pin plug from the chassis and mount a small Bulgin 3 pin chassis mount plug on a piece of paxolin the same size as the plug I have removed and fit it, with the plug mounted, in the same position as the original plug which can be kept in a plastic bag inside the set. These Bulgin 3 pin connectors are very small and can be used in most cases.