HMV Barn Project

[Nowhere-Man]

I attempted to upload a pic of more work I did today and I'm afraid it's a no go. I took the pic from further away and shrunk it on Microsoft but the pop-up keeps saying it has too many pixels. It seems my FujiFilm camera doesn't seem to much use where size is an issue.

"Microsoft" what?

Microsoft are a company that write software products. To which product do you refer? Could it be Microsoft Paint, perhaps?

Sorry if that seems ultra-pedantic, but it's an example of the "clarity of communication" that I was referring to earlier.

I'm not aware that the forum limits the number of pixels contained within an image (but I'm very interested to learn if this is indeed the case). Are you sure that's what the forum software said? Are you sure it didn't complain about the size of the file?

Certainly, as far as I know, the only limit is indeed the size of the file. This is discussed in a "sticky" thread within the "Forum Helpdesk" forum: http://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/...p?tid=4835

Could you tell me the model of your FujiFilm camera, please? I'd like to check the specifications and see if I can find a manual on-line - I'd like to see if I can help you with the close-up images.

All the best,

Mark

It could well be the case a lot of people have problems understanding me. I tend to have an unorthodox approach to learning which depends a great deal on visual communication, as opposed to oral. This is why regular classes were pretty much a disaster for me and I much prefer to study textbooks in the early hours (by myself when it's very quiet). Those who know me personally tend to take the view I over-analyse (at least in their opinion).

I don't have the camera with me at this moment as I use internet from the library usually so my camera is on my boat. I've no idea why I can't upload images but usually the first one uploads O.K. but the second one bounces back. I did have a library member of staff trying to help me to shrink the image down and we both failed. She knew more than I do about general software issues so I'm afraid it's not been a simple matter. Next time I post you can take my camera details and if you find an easy way around it, that's fine by me.

No progress to report on the radio so far as I've been wiring up a boat. I'll resume by seeking out a heavy duty pot from some source but I've not been in a made rush to power it up. There's time in plenty.

[Refugee]

Have you read this thread?
http://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/...p?tid=4955
I posted it for people whom have trouble posting photos.
The camera used was a £99 Fuji so it is at least the same make as yours.

Editors like The Gimp are quite complicated and it will take a bit longer to find the buttons you need to use the basic functions needed to simply get the photos onto the forum.
The pictures I took for the guide I wrote were produced using a screen grabber while editing the photo.
Unfortunately the forum software removes the digital "fingerprint" of the camera from file attachments so I can't determine the model number of your camera remotely.

[Nowhere-Man]

Have you read this thread?
http://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/...p?tid=4955
I posted it for people whom have trouble posting photos.
The camera used was a £99 Fuji so it is at least the same make as yours.

Editors like The Gimp are quite complicated and it will take a bit longer to find the buttons you need to use the basic functions needed to simply get the photos onto the forum.
The pictures I took for the guide I wrote were produced using a screen grabber while editing the photo.
Unfortunately the forum software removes the digital "fingerprint" of the camera from file attachments so I can't determine the model number of your camera remotely.

It's an A170 I got ages ago from Cash Converters. I think I may have another camera somewhere too that's not as good but I could try it.

I'll read the link when I can but anyway, you have the model of the camera now.

Today, I removed the potentiometer. I was extremely careful to make sure exactly what leads were taken off and where they go. The switch leads are basically 2 orange and 2 blue. One of the orange wires will go to mains live and the other to the primary. Same applies to neutral. When removing plugs, I always knot the live.

The resistance wires had me a bit puzzled and also struggling with basic Yoga. The central lug of the resistance pot basically goes via my Wima capacitor to the DDT grid. This will be the bias for the valve. I can't stress enough how hard it was tracing that wire because the valve base is swamped with components and wiring and also under the dreaded ladder. I finally got a 0 Ohm reading so that was fine.

Another wire makes its way to the Radio and gram switch.

I'm curious as to why these wires are sleeved in larger cables that internally are connected to a ground. That is, you have a black wire that runs to the grid, for example, and the outer wire it runs internally through will have its inner core grounded to some point. Some guy who claims expertise in electronics who was looking at it swears the whole thing is a short circuit caused by heat. I have to disagree as if you trace the cable in question, it opens up internally and a jumper wire runs from the second break to a ground point.

I did test for any short between sleeved and circuit wires and it is O.K.  Someone may have some light to shine on this.

Anyway my pot has 7 tags all in all and I was very careful to jot down and photograph my interventions.

Soldering seems to have been O.K. and sturdy.

[ppppenguin]

I'm curious as to why these wires are sleeved in larger cables that internally are connected to a ground. That is, you have a black wire that runs to the grid, for example, and the outer wire it runs internally through will have its inner core grounded to some point.

This sounds like you are describing a screened cable. Just like co-ax. The purpose of the outer earthed screen is to shield the sensitive circuit in the middle from picking up hum and noise.

[Nowhere-Man]

I'm curious as to why these wires are sleeved in larger cables that internally are connected to a ground. That is, you have a black wire that runs to the grid, for example, and the outer wire it runs internally through will have its inner core grounded to some point.

This sounds like you are describing a screened cable. Just like co-ax. The purpose of the outer earthed screen is to shield the sensitive circuit in the middle from picking up hum and noise.

I really wasn't quite sure what to make of it. Should I keep it as it is or modify it do you think? Have you encountered this a lot yourself and is it very typical of certain makes?

[ppppenguin]

Manufacturers tend to build down to a price. If screening wasn't needed they probably wouldn't have fitted it. Can be replaced with co-ax or screened audio cable.

[Mark Hennessy]

It's an A170 I got ages ago from Cash Converters.

Ok. It does have a Macro mode, according to this page: http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_...film_a170/

See page 21 of the user manual (download link: http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_...ual_01.pdf)

Basically, just press the button with the little flower on it. Then you can focus when close to the object. Press again to put it back in normal mode. When in Macro mode, the little flower icon appears on the display (page 3 of the manual).

See also pages 55-57, which discusses the menus. Change the image size and quality to "3M", which should produce images that will fit on the forum with no resizing necessary. The default "10M" is too much.

Please give this a go. You should be able to get pin-sharp results using this mode - plenty of light, and keep the camera as still as possible. Usually better without flash. It will really help us to help you, and will help people in the future who stumble across your threads (Google really likes us!).

Hope this helps,

Mark

[Terry]

The Pixilion image file converter is simple to use and free for personal use:

http://www.nchsoftware.com/imageconverter/index.html

The only restriction is that the free version can only process one file at a time.

It will reduce the size of the image and you can adjust the compression of jpg images to get the best compromise between file size and loss of clarity.

Use it on the files you already have which are causing you trouble.

[Nowhere-Man]

It's an A170 I got ages ago from Cash Converters.

Ok. It does have a Macro mode, according to this page: http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_...film_a170/

See page 21 of the user manual (download link: http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_...ual_01.pdf)

Basically, just press the button with the little flower on it. Then you can focus when close to the object. Press again to put it back in normal mode. When in Macro mode, the little flower icon appears on the display (page 3 of the manual).

See also pages 55-57, which discusses the menus. Change the image size and quality to "3M", which should produce images that will fit on the forum with no resizing necessary. The default "10M" is too much.

Please give this a go. You should be able to get pin-sharp results using this mode - plenty of light, and keep the camera as still as possible. Usually better without flash. It will really help us to help you, and will help people in the future who stumble across your threads (Google really likes us!).

Hope this helps,

Mark

O.K., thanks. I'll try it that way.

I've been having major problems myself with websites. I couldn't get the blogs to show as updated on Wix. This was after publishing and no changes seen at all. I racked my brains to try and find a solution but no joy. Then again, Wix has had a lot of criticism. In the old days of Windows 98 I just saved my stuff on Front Page, changed the HTML a bit and uploaded onto a server.

[Nowhere-Man]

UPDATE:

I went to Maplins yesterday and bought a potentiometer. I was surprised it wasn't expensive at all. One guy was clueless as to what a 500 K Pot is so I tactfully helped him to find out what was in stock.The only one that came close was a 470 K, single gang breaker and potentiometer at 400 volts DC tolerance. It wasn't totally sure it would be O.K. but it was only £3.50 and I just bought it. It really ought to say double gang??

Soon as I got home, I tested resistances between the power supply points in on and off positions. So, if I were to connect the 2 transformer leads to two tabs and two mains leads to the two other tabs, the circuit would close on switch on. In "off" there was no circuit between either of the transformer leads and either of the live or neutral mains leads. I always tend to pull the plug anyway.

Not sure how to accommodate the screened leads. I am aware what's needed is a bias on the double diode grid which I now located. I tested the Ohms up to 470 K on the pot and all was well. All in all, it seems an easier job that I imagined.

Again, this is a much more difficult set to work on than a GEC. It's less spaced out and far more cramped.