Free CAD

[Nick]

The best program for any application is:

1. The one you have, and...
   
2. ...which works for you
   

The thing with the "professional" stuff like SolidWorks/SolidEdge/AutoCAD etc. is that for most folk, 90% of what they do is unnecessary and just confusing - The reason I use SolidEdge is that for the more complex stuff, such as scaled step & repeats, its just the business, but the learning curve is steep.

Its worth pointing out that the macro & step functionality of the more sophisticated packages allows you to programmatically create drawings that are so complex that to re-scale or recalculate them would be a substantial manual process prone to error.

e.g. if you look at this project - http://4hv.org/e107_plugins/forum/forum_...90019.post that I did a while ago, each of the struts is almost the same but the recesses for the copper coil make a spiral up the former - this would have been very complex to do manually, but using macros to generate the formers I could play with the number of turns, the length of the coil, diameter of the tubing used, number of vertical formers created, thickness of material etc. just by changing a number or two and pressing a button.

Having invested the time to learn the product, I now use it for everything as its does it for me - but very few people need that sort of stuff - its complete overkill for most.

To generate scales, I can see that macros would again be the way forwards for me - there are also several programs out there for scales such as Galva

Use whatever you are most comfortable and productive with...

[Retired]

Hi,

I used to struggle with a very old 17" monitor but recently upgraded to 23" and what a dramatic difference; you make a good point about screen size Gary because a good big screen makes a lot of difference. As I'm still a CAD novice drawing basic 2D shapes I find zooming to full screen size a great help.

WOW Nick; that's how it's done and what all novices would dream of doing but that's just it; in their dreams. You've demonstrated very well indeed the capabilities of CAD as it is only limited to the operators imagination. The pictures are also first class and the laser cutting crisp and sharp. Top marks Nick; I'd be over the moon to achieve such results. The forum looks interesting as well. Thanks for sharing.

Regarding the program you have and which works for you; over the years I've tried lots of programs and not one worked for me; not the program fault at all simply me being thick and not grasping the basic functions although I'm now making progress at last.

I'll stick with emachineshop as this CAD program is set up for engineering which suits me it even has a very pretty teacher on the video tutorial.

Kind regards, Col.

[Radio Fixer]

Fabulous stuff Nick ... think you are in a different league to me. Nice to see

thanks Gary

[Retired]

Hi,

Well said Gary; I think Nick is on a different planet to us mere mortals.

It's only a week ago that after 14 years of nothing but failure with using CAD that I still could not use it even to draw in 2D. I must have spent hundreds of hours trying assorted CAD and drawing programs ending up using "Paint" for virtually producing a non scaled sketch.

During this week I have not been able to play around practicing with EMS because I became seriously de-railed due to my very basic computer on-board graphics not allowing me to transfer 3D to either my printer or files. On top of this as fully discussed in another thread I found two yellow question marks stating the computer had an Unknown Device. This really did rattle me and after many hours frustration and a great deal of help from you kind forum members I ended up thinking I would have been happy if the unknown device was a bomb. I'm too polite to express my true feelings on this matter but it totally scattered my thoughts for days on end.

Well Joe; please put your pencil and paper away because there is a CAD program that you hopefully will quickly use as explained below.

I stated that I intended to stick with EMS (emachineshop) and I've already posted some success but things have progressed light years to my advantage. It took four hours of fierce determination and concentration to produce the 2D drawings using EMS but at last after 14 years my foot was on the CAD ladder.

The day after drawing in 2D successfully for the first time I thought I would have a try using 3D. An hour later I had a wonderful fully scaled 3D drawing of a clutch mounting I'm currently working on. Not only did I have the drawing I was absolutely amazed by viewing the drawing in 3D being able to view it from any angle; how the heck could I produce something like this as I've only just done my first 2D drawing; to say I was over the moon with delight is an understatement; I was truly gobsmacked at this success.

Last night my chum David kindly sent me a copy of a back panel section drawing he had produced using "Paint" and David had added dimensions. Out of curiosity I decided to have a go at using his details in the hope of producing both 2D & 3D drawings.

At first I admit it was a bit difficult in getting the slot shape drawn; but with patience and looking at the tutorial I drew a single slot but when I tried to repeat the lines seperated allowing me to move only one line at a time? Again I viewed he tutorial and found I needed to use the "Group" function; brilliant I not only had a perfectly scaled slot but now I could repeat (copy) it as many times as required so I repeated lots of them.

Next job was to try to get them all to align. As an experiment I drew a rectangle and scaled this as I would a radio back panel; with the rectangle easily drawn I set this to fill the screen. Now using temporary lines I slowly built up the first row of slots; I found if I simply drew a straight line to align the slots to it didn't work as the spacing was all over the place. I set the top tool bar right hand setting at 90 degrees then I started to add the short temporary lines. Using Davids measurements the spacing between the slot center was 13mm the slots being 6mm wide each.

I drew a 25mm line down from the top left hand corner of the rectangle and the end of this line then gave me a "Snap" point; next I drew a horizontal line from the new snap at 25mm and this gave the first snap for the slot. Whilst drawing these straight lines it is very important to press and keep pressed the Ctrl key on the keyboard; this ensures a straight line and not a zig-zag. I then added the temporary snaps for the remainder of the top row of slots; these were added one by one each spaced at 13mm using the scaling adjustment on the top tool bar which is highlighted.

Now it was simple to nudge all the repeated slots into place one at each snap point knowing they were now in perfect alignment.

Adding the lower rows of slots was a doddle.

I added a snap point at each side of the rectangle then using the left mouse button keeping it pressed selected the entire row of slots by drawing a box around and close to them; select either Line; Repeat or as I did I used the repeat icon on the top tool bar and the repeated slots appeared over and near the original slots and the whole row of slots was simply nudged to the two new snap points then a mouse click installed the row at one go; how good this felt; and by now I had gained a great deal of confidence and quickly added the third row of slots.

To remove a line is dead easy; select with the cursor and when highlighted hit the delete key on the keyboard. I did this to remove all the temporary lines.

Then for interest I added a square at the bottom left hand. All the while I was drawing I was "saving" just in case. I now had a 2D drawing and was very pleased with it but what about 3D.

I selected the outer rectangle and on the top tool bar went to the "Z" axis adjustment. At first I cleared the box then entered 3mm and set it on the picture with a mouse click. Clicking on the 3D pyramid on the top tool bar brought up the image allowing me to rotate it; as I'm only experimenting I then went back and increased the panel thickness (Z) to 10mm to make it stand out more. I now had drawn the panel in both 2D & 3D but although the slots appeared as "Daylight" holes the bottom left hand square did not; I selected the square and again using the Z settings I added 10mm; whoops; this time when viewed in 3D the square had become a square protruding on the panel when in fact I wanted a hole (Daylight) I tried once again; selected the square but this time added a minus sign in front of 10mm; it worked as now it viewed as a hole; I could have selected "daylight" I believe but I still have a great deal to learn. It took an hour and a half to draw the panel and view it in 3D.

Considering I've failed with CAD for 14 years I reckon EMS is absolutely brilliant and although the explanation above is very long winded with a little practice it takes longer to write about it than to do it so please do not be put off as my intention is to encourage others to have a go who have found themselves in a similar CAD position to me.

I emailed the drawing to David last night just before I knocked off and asked him about it this morning. David was already on top of the job; he had not only printed off a copy which he kindly showed me but he had been able to view it in 3D rotating it on his computer; now that's what I call the icing on the cake.

At last I can finally draw using CAD; it gives me such a wonderful feeling of satisfaction and has now opened up a whole new world for me to explore; I've got a long journey ahead of me to reach Nick's CAD proficiency but what a great start.

I'll now add the drawing but don't know if you will be able to access it in EMS; it's worth a try but I'll also add a 3D picture in order to show what I've been on about.

Because of my poor computer on-board graphics I am unable to transfer 3D images and images I have are distorted so please bear this in mind and this is why I'm buying a new computer in the New Year.

If you can view the 2D drawing in EMS then please select the pyramid on the top tool bar which opens up the 3D view; this to me is amazing as the picture can be viewed from any angle using the mouse; if not at least I've tried.

Emachineshop CAD in my opinion should be released as a stand alone drawing package; it has enabled me to progress rapidly. Good luck.

Sorry I'm unable to transfer the picture as the file type is not allowed so I've taken digital images using my camera and downloaded them in order to post them; hopefully they provide an insight into what can be achieved using EMS.

Kind regards, Col.

       

[Yorkie]

Most impressive Colin.

I downloaded EMS some years ago, furtled around with it and like other CAD packages, it's languished on my PC ever since. I've now downloaded the latest version, and EMS of course have a vested interest in making the software simple (as simple as such software can be) as it's primary aim is as an order form and pricing scheme for getting EMS to make custom parts in a wide range of materials. I mentioned to Colin yesterday that I'm tying to finalise a draft article for consideration by Carl Glover for the BVWS Bulletin on using a router and jigs to make replica radio backs. As luck would have it, most valve radios have identical slot sizes, shapes and spacings. I wanted to draw a simple sketch for the article and add dimensions to it. I faffed around for an hour or more using MS Paint to draw a minging sketch, which I'm sure could be done in a jiffy by a competent person to a much better standard. The sketch that Colin has drawn is in fact almost identical to a the back of a Wartime Civilian Receiver, and it just goes to show what can be accomplished by single minded determination. There are lots of youtube videos on using EMS, and I really must come up to speed with this great piece of free 2D/3D software.

My puny effort is attached – it might shame me into doing better!

Also, a pic is attached of a replica back for a WCR set I made on a router jig I designed, alongside an original back. (Label is courtesy of forum member Tony Thompson, ( AKA 'Aerodyne').

As can be seen, Colin’s sketch is almost identical to the WCR back.

[Radio Fixer]

Interesting and well done Colin.

Just wondering what I could use 3D for and how to do it in Corel Draw. Mostly 2D does all I want, dials, ccts etc.

Yes! I know Carl would very much like your Back Making article David as I pointed him to your thread on the Forum and spoke to him later . We thought it a very fine piece of work and well worth an article.

gary

[pwdrive]

Hello David, just downloaded and expanded your radio back pic. It looks first rate I have to say.

Col. seems to be getting to grasp with his.

Lawrence.

[Joe]

Sorry I'm unable to transfer the picture as the file type is not allowed so I've taken digital images using my camera and downloaded them in order to post them; hopefully they provide an insight into what can be achieved using EMS.

There's a way 'round that: put it in a ZIP. Right-click the file and then select 'Send to' then 'Compressed (Zipped) Folder.' The resulting FileName.zip can then be attached.

Cheers

Joe

[Yorkie]

Yes! I know Carl would very much like your Back Making article David as I pointed him to your thread on the Forum and spoke to him later . We thought it a very fine piece of work and well worth an article.

gary

I promise I'll get on with it Gary - I've all but written the text, and just need to finish and photograph one more jig to make it worth running the article across Carl.

[Retired]

Hi,

This CAD is getting serious; I was fully awake during the night around 3 o'clock thinking about how to add a snap ring groove to the drawing I've already produced for my clutch mounting which has been evading me. I'll kick it around a bit more today and post my result later. Once I reach the stage of being awake during the night thinking of problems I know I'll eventually succeed as such projects gain a fierce hold on me.

Your home made radio back panels could easily be mistaken as manufacturers panels David as they are the business with the labels help from Tony adding to their authenticity, very well done and others can follow your lead as you describe the process in great detail in other posts. You've mastered making router jigs and it shows by the perfect spacing of all the slots which would be virtually impossible to reproduce by freehand routing.

I too would fully encourage you to submit the article for inclusion in the BVWS Bulletin; Carl the editor is always on the look out for interesting stories/articles and the information would be of great help to readers wishing to make back panels but who don't really know how to go about it.

Could I be cheeky David and I know it involves extra time and work but I believe extending the article to cover your excellent router jig "comb/finger jointing" would also be most interesting and useful. The comb joints produced in using the jig are extremely precise and look very attractive; as you know David I've also produced these joints from the information you kindly sent me.

I know you are deeply into 2D Coral Draw Gary as you turn out some wonderful drawings but I do wonder if Coral Draw 3D would be like many other such drawing programs and would put you off by their complexity. It was such complex drawing programs that caused me to despair for so many years of ever producing a 2D drawing let alone a 3D drawing. You though persevered with Coral and cracked 2D so I do sincerely wish you the very best of luck if you try and if you do could I please ask you to post your progress. I openly admit I was unable to use such drawing programs so would follow your progress with great interest. You can of course keep me updated with progress via email as I enjoy receiving your work in progress stories even if the electronic detail is way beyond me.

Thanks Lawrence; yes at last I'm grasping CAD basics and finding it most rewarding on a personal level; once I buy my new computer then I'll know it is down to me if I have problems and not down to software or drivers/graphic cards or whatever.

Many thanks Joe for the information. I'm going to be cheeky as I'll send you the drawing via email then you will be able to play around with it and hopefully then explain if you succeed in how you did it because I am unable to move the 3D image at all on my computer; the options are shown for saving/copying/pasting and I am unable to print even using "print screen" the image sits on the screen laughing at me. perhaps this is down to my on board graphics as I do receive a message saying my computer is not set up to handle this type of file. I've spent hours during the week as discussed on my thread seen here;

http://golbornevintageradio.org/forum/sh...p?tid=2794

I hope you can add the required link onto this thread Joe because it is truly amazing to view 3D for the first time and if I can produce such work given my previous failings with CAD then I believe anyone can.

Kind regards, Col.