PCB component removal technique

[Mike Watterson]

WD40 is a kind of paraffin wax in a solvent, not regular kerosene type paraffin, something between Vaseline type paraffin and candle wax. Hence Water Dispersant.

I find fluxed copper braid good for desoldering. The cheaper stuff has no flux. Maybe 60W iron.

You need a vacuum pump for a decent desoldering station and a separate soldering iron. A hot air rework station (not a DIY heat gun!) is also handy.

[BusyBee]

Hi.
I know many in this community seem to dislike WD40. Why? It is after all just solvent and light oil. I've used it in electronics for over 40 years and would never be without it.
I use in my desoldering pumps as it stops the solder sticking to the nozzle and improves suction.
Some of the ideas mentioned sound  well worth a try.

I just hate the smell. I use 'Duck Oil' which is very similar, and even has a distinctive smell, but I get on with. I use this for switch cleaner as well and it seems far better for long term pot cleaning than switch cleaner as it is a bit thicker.

Tracy

[Murphyv310]

Duck oil is very good Tracy and does admittedly smell nicer.
I've used WD on pots, switches and of course mechanical parts.

[Radio Fixer]

So reading between the lines not a lot of good for 30's valve radios with big bloby solder joints. More a tool for PCBs.

Is this a reasonable summary?

thanks Gary

[Amie]

So reading between the lines not a lot of good for 30's valve radios with big bloby solder joints.  More a tool for PCBs.

Is this a reasonable summary?

thanks Gary

Hi Gary.

The compressed air method would be fine, apart from the solder dust that it blows off. If that got into a switch or pot it could conceivably do some mischief. I replaced a capacitor in a ER battery set 'properly' using this method. The wire was able to just be unwrapped from the tags, but the time spent OTJ was packing rag around it to stop the flying debris. I find it amazing how cleanly it clears the joint of solder.

Cleaning up PCBs after the fact is easier, so yes, it is more suited.

If you try it, mind that you don't ingest it or get it in anyones eyes.

Regards.
Amie.

[Nick]

You need a vacuum pump for a decent desoldering station and a separate soldering iron. A hot air rework station (not a DIY heat gun!) is also handy.

Many desoldering stations, e.g. the Metcal MX-5200 + MX-DS1 that I use, operate with standard shop compressed air and the desoldering gun, in this case the MX-DS1, creates it's own vacuum using the Venturi Effect.

[Radio Fixer]

Thanks Amie. I wouldn't even contemplate using the compressed air de-soldering method on a 30's radio chassis. Just asking for trouble making sure every single tiny piece is cleaned away. Much easier on a PCB that you can hold in one hand under a Mag Light.

So for me stick with the solder wick: you can buy a lot of it for the cost of a de-soldering station anyway.

Gary

[BusyBee]

So for me stick with the solder wick: you can buy a lot of it for the cost of a de-soldering station anyway.

Gary

I have a solder sucker plus desoldering wick. I find with the wick that it does seem to go off with time. Since getting up to speed with surface mount techniques I have found liquid solder flux a useful addition to the workshop. I may try adding some to the wick next time I use it to desolder something as it often seems to almost behave by magic the attraction of solder to a joint. For instance - when soldering a row of SM IC pins, if they are wetted with the flux a loaded normal size soldering iron bit can just be drawn along them soldering each terminal as it passes. A bit of a technique but not as difficult as it sounds. The wick has a more solid form of flux which perhaps does not react quite as fast in its normal form.

Tracy