They are called DIN or "Top Hat" rails and are 35mm wide and normally by either 7.5 or 15mm high. Originally they were defined by the German standards people, DIN (Deutsches Institut für Normung), hence the continued use of that moniker. There is a "mini top-hat" variant which is rarer and 5.5mm high. The rails can be solid or slotted.
Subsequent the standard was internationalised and is now covered by the original DIN 46277-3 as well as EN 50055 and BS 5584 - probably by others too... the standards also define other variants, both bigger and smaller, as well as some with different cross-sections...
(07-01-2015, 01:17 AM)Refugee Wrote: When I salvaged it there was also a big contacter driven by it. It would have been part of a large motor starter.
The delay setting can be turned to zero.
The label is marked 5A but the relay inside shows 10A. They must have built it to last.
Ah, so. That's how I start my Chipmaster except that I built the Delay Unit myself. It's the usual Diode, Cap and Relay arrangement.
The downside is that it's OK if the Load is pretty Standard, but if it's variable then the 'Delay' - Time that the Start Capacitor is in Circuit - will be wrong. No real problem if the Load is lower than usual but can pose problems if it's higher. My Chipmaster won't start with the normal Delay if the Variator is wound up because it puts a lot of Starting Load on the Motor.
The two cap motor has both capacitors in parallel when starting and when up to speed the large one is open circuit via the switch centrifugal or electronic switch and the motor continues as cap run. These motors have better starting torque than the cheaper cap start induction run. ABB I'm told, have introduced a range of motors known as CSR which use an electronic starter (Triac) and if the motor cannot accelerate up to normal running speed within 2 seconds the thing will switch out (thermal overload), so no good with belt sanders and the like. No doubt they are cheaper than the mechanical centrifugal switch and should easier to change should one go wrong and it doesn't need a motor to be dismantled either as when a mechanical switch sticks open or contacts welds up.