Pye PCR2

[pwdrive]

To travel the 180° from maximum to minimum frequency needs 75 turns of the tuning handle.

Here's a shot of the top of the chassis:-



The odd thing is that there are quite obviously six valves yet the component list only mentions four. There are also far more capacitors than are detailed. Luckily I'm only replacing like with like and can read the values off the old ones.

- Joe

That's not a bad reduction ratio, three of the valves should be of the same type, EF39's maybe.
According to the specs SW covers approx 6 to 23 megs so as a rough guess approx 225 kcs per knob revolution, should be able to BFO that with a steady hand.

Lawrence.

[Yorkie]

I refer the honourable gentleman to the posts I made some moments ago.

- Joe

Ooops - another intellectual interlude - don't put me in a home!

[Joe]

It has spoken!

I restuffed another four caps this morning and when I re-tested it could hear interference and with a huge aerial (the screening of next-door's TV aerial wire) and maximum volume I can get strong MW stations.

There'a another six to go but at least I know all the major bits are OK.

- Joe

[Yorkie]

That's good news Joe - it did look in a rather sorry state when it arrived, but obviously all the key components such as transformers, coils, switchery, speaker etc are strutting their stuff!

[pwdrive]

C'mon Joe lets have some shortwave action....

Lawrence.

[Joe]

I've done some more caps, four still to go, and actually SW is working well. I found the low volume was down to not thinking about the aerial trimmer. There's still nothing on LW and only Absolute and Radio Sheffield on MW.

I was getting an English-speaking Chinese thing, a couple of German and a lot that sounded like people vomiting so I assume they were actually speaking in French.

I must say that this 'Restoration,' as opposed to 'Repair,' lark isn't for me. I've chewed some screws trying to get them out when there was no real need to apart from to polish the heads. I then snapped one off when putting it back and trying to get all the slots to line-up.

I even wonder about the re-stuffing. In some ways it 'Preserves originality' but utterly destroys them in the process. Were I starting again I'd fit new ones but leave the old ones in place disconnected.

The markings on the case seem VERY delicate and I'm not at all sure that I'll be able to get the knobs off. The grub-screws aren't just rusted in place but have no slots left either.

I'll certainly be able to improve it and can't make the PSU look worse than its current PRU camouflage finish.

   

- Joe

[Yorkie]

I've never quite understood why some restorers stuff caps. During its working life with its first owner, if a radio failed, they would no doubt take it to a repair shop who would replace failed components such as caps or resistors with whatever the current replacements were, which would be unlikely to be the same as the originals. Such repairs would be a part of the 'provenance' of the radio. Electrical things conk out from time to time and need to be repaired. If we restore a radio, we are, in effect, extending it's working life, and provided that repair is completed competently and safely with modern components we're are only adopting the same practices as would the 'Smith and Dicky' repair shops of yesteryear. If an radio owner had said to 'Smith and Dicky' "I'd like you to preserve the originality of the caps be re-stuffing them" they'd have been laughed off the face of the planet.

Apart from that, whoever is going to remove a chassis and say 'oh dear, what a pity the caps weren't stuffed'. I can understand it to an extent with smoothing caps which are mounted above the chassis, but half a dozen paper caps in a DAC90A? Hello? I do though understand why people replace old 1/2 Watt resistors with 2 & 3 Watt metal or carbon film resistors as modern 1/2 Watt ones look so puny and out of place.

Just my point of view - not trying to start an argument - I don't expect others to concur and I certainly wouldn't presume to lecture anyone on what they should do with their own property. But 'Preserving originality' especially of unseen components, does not enhance the value of a radio, and indeed, paradoxically, upgrading radios by rectifying safety deficiencies in the original design to comply with current regulations, (thus destroying its originality) enables professional restorers to to command much higher prices than they otherwise would do. In this regard, two professional restorers who regularly sell DAC90As on E-bay for well over £200 a pop, (a recent one went for £265.00), describe the work done on the radio, which includes such things as removing the reversible two-pin plug and hard wiring a new mains flex directly to the mains switch, earthing the metal speaker grille, and in one case, fitting a small 6.3 Volt mains transformer and easily obtainable 6.3V dial bulbs. And not a stuffed cap in sight.

[Skywave]

David: I agree with your sentiments about replacing old and defective components: out with the old, in with the new; time bears all its old components away. Besides, today's new component will, with time, become tomorrow's treasured time-piece - well, in some circles, anyway.
My 'take' on all of this is about the same as yours. First, this item was meant to be used. What do I need to do to it to make it safe to use? Secondly, if I am going to use it, then I want it to be reliable: I do not want to keep repairing / adjusting it. Thirdly, if I am going to use it, I want it to perform at least as well as the original design team intended - and that itself may mean some design changes, since any mass-produced item will have undergone some compromises to meet cost constraints. Finally, I do not want it to look scruffy and dirty, but on the other hand I will not expect it to grace the dining room and be in competition with the best porcelain and silver cutlery (a brief excursion into fantasy!).

Al.

[Yorkie]

I'm glad it's not just me then who thinks this way!

I have to say though, that Joe's stuffed caps do look bonny!

[Joe]

I absolutely agree with David and Al and usually just chop and change. In general I try to think what a professional would have done in the past; fix any out and out faults plus enough preventative maintenance so I'd feel happy to offer a guarantee.

I went down the restuff route this time as this set has a bit more historical interest than most I've done and there was also a bit of "Don't knock it 'til you've tried it" in my thinking. Besides it did seem a shame that something which had stood unmolested for the best part of seventy years (the smaller electrolytics are marked "May 45") to then have lumps chopped out willy and, indeed, nilly.

I'm not knocking those people who do go in for full nuts and bolts re-builds; in fact my respect and admiration for them has increased.

- Joe