04-06-2021, 07:46 AM
(This post was last modified: 04-06-2021, 07:58 AM by Radio Fixer.)
Used the dishwasher many times before I had an Ultrasonic Cleaner. Think it was a quick wash cycle with half a tablet. Works well but be sure to remove any mica plates from the trimmers. Rinse with tap water and then deionised. Be sure to lube after: grease for the ball race and thin oil for the plain bearings.
Dont ever do this on ones with painted end plates as the whole works will be jammed up with paint particles and the plates will now look very tatty.
Since having the USC I have used that with this general purpose cleaner:https://cpc.farnell.com/ambersil/6330001300/ultrasonic-cleaning-liquid-1ltr/dp/SA02601?st=ultrasonic%20cleaning%20solution
Ambersil from CPC
Then a part of an article I wrote (Zetavox) about how I dealt with corrosion:
"And then another funny; I found one of the fixed plates was loose at the top and another had a ‘chewed’ fixing screw. Why would anyone think they needed to mess with these? So the decision was made to remove the fixed plates noting where everything came from. It did allow a much better clean up and I could look at the aluminium corrosion of the plates under a magnifying light. It wasn’t bad and interestingly more on the fixed plates with virtually none on those of the rotor. Those are of course at earth potential so perhaps over decades the polarity on the fixed plates makes a difference.
I tried an Internet WikiHow method on the corrosion which was soaking in a white vinegar and water solution. As the very weak solution recommended by them had no effect I increased it to 1:1 although some suggestions used the vinegar neat and left items overnight. My mixture seemed effective and after a few hours’ soak the white had changed colour a little to a darker grey. Emboldened that a longer soak was not going to just leave sludge in the bottom of the container I tried overnight. Afterwards it was difficult to see any corrosion so perhaps it had been successfully neutralised. The items were all finished off by copious rinsing in tap water, followed by a soak in de-ionised water. Then after all this cosseting, the parts had a luxurious warm stay on top of the CH boiler. Before putting back together I re-sprayed the chassis end plates and the cover light grey which is the norm for this gang and was the colour inside."
Gary
Dont ever do this on ones with painted end plates as the whole works will be jammed up with paint particles and the plates will now look very tatty.
Since having the USC I have used that with this general purpose cleaner:https://cpc.farnell.com/ambersil/6330001300/ultrasonic-cleaning-liquid-1ltr/dp/SA02601?st=ultrasonic%20cleaning%20solution
Ambersil from CPC
Then a part of an article I wrote (Zetavox) about how I dealt with corrosion:
"And then another funny; I found one of the fixed plates was loose at the top and another had a ‘chewed’ fixing screw. Why would anyone think they needed to mess with these? So the decision was made to remove the fixed plates noting where everything came from. It did allow a much better clean up and I could look at the aluminium corrosion of the plates under a magnifying light. It wasn’t bad and interestingly more on the fixed plates with virtually none on those of the rotor. Those are of course at earth potential so perhaps over decades the polarity on the fixed plates makes a difference.
I tried an Internet WikiHow method on the corrosion which was soaking in a white vinegar and water solution. As the very weak solution recommended by them had no effect I increased it to 1:1 although some suggestions used the vinegar neat and left items overnight. My mixture seemed effective and after a few hours’ soak the white had changed colour a little to a darker grey. Emboldened that a longer soak was not going to just leave sludge in the bottom of the container I tried overnight. Afterwards it was difficult to see any corrosion so perhaps it had been successfully neutralised. The items were all finished off by copious rinsing in tap water, followed by a soak in de-ionised water. Then after all this cosseting, the parts had a luxurious warm stay on top of the CH boiler. Before putting back together I re-sprayed the chassis end plates and the cover light grey which is the norm for this gang and was the colour inside."
Gary
