Catching up on this thread... Try 10 ohms in series with 0.1uF 'X' rated capacitor.
It's a good point. Connecting a capacitor across the contacts will fix impulse noise when they open (the voltage rise is controlled) at the expense of trouble when they close (current impulse can be huge). Gives the contacts a hammering.
It also means the capacitor is seeing mains all the time the equipment is switched off (but still connected). Having experienced the dreaded Rifa capacitors as Mark says, only suggestion to Bush Baby is to switch off at the wall after you've switched off at the switch.
It all seems a lot of trouble just to remove switch clicks!
(08-12-2019, 09:47 PM)Amie Wrote: Thanks Mark. Yes I understand the snubber across the contacts, but am surprised that just a capacitor is used. If you happen to close the switch at peak mains, it must arc(Shorten the life of the switch), or is it just the best of a bad choice. I have seen those capacitors wired L to N that have puffed out what appears to be stinky steam?
Amie
It's a good point. Connecting a capacitor across the contacts will fix impulse noise when they open (the voltage rise is controlled) at the expense of trouble when they close (current impulse can be huge). Gives the contacts a hammering.
It also means the capacitor is seeing mains all the time the equipment is switched off (but still connected). Having experienced the dreaded Rifa capacitors as Mark says, only suggestion to Bush Baby is to switch off at the wall after you've switched off at the switch.
It all seems a lot of trouble just to remove switch clicks!
