Basically, what Jeffrey has said but I'll answer your points, anyway.
1. Don't!
Use inductive splitters - see my earlier post for links to suppliers. A 2-way resistive splitter loses 6dB. If you think of an 8-way splitter as one 2-way feeding two 2-ways feeding four two-way splitters, the loss will be 3 x 6 = 18dB. It will still be 18dB no matter how you configure the splitter(s). As the Aurora has a nominal output of +16dBmV, each splitter output will be -2dBmv which is lower that the generally accepted 0dBmV limit and this doesn't take account the cable loss. Don't be surprised if your sets display poor contrast or noisy picture, depending on the overall gain.
Good quality inductive splitter(s), no matter how they are configured, will have an overall loss of no more than 11dB, which leaves +5dBmv at each output when fed by an Aurora, right in the middle of the usual limits of 0dBmV to +10dBmV. Again, this will be slightly less after taking cable losses into account.
There are other downsides to resistive splitters regarding poor isolation but, as you've already blown your signal budget, there's no point explaining that here!
2. No.
3. No. The Aurora doesn't care a hoot what happens to the signal beyond its output socket! Provided you don't try to feed anything nasty back the other way, you can't/won't damage it.
You will need to use F connectors for the splitters and the output of the Aurora, so stick to them. If you use F connectors on both ends of your cables, you can also get good quality F to coax adaptors for the aerial sockets of your set - much less fiddling around than with a Belling style plug!
As for cable, what is it - not solid delectric, I hope, and is it actually 75Ω cable, not 50Ω? Not RG6, I hope.
RG6 is a type, not a specification, and quality, especially with regard to screening, can be very variable. CT100, on the other hand, is a specification. The original CT100 was semi-airspaced and kinked easily whilst its WF100 and PF100 successors are foam filled dielectric and much less liable to damage, especially on 'loose' runs. WF100 is made by Webro and PF100 is made by Philex, otherwise they are identical.
1. Don't!
Use inductive splitters - see my earlier post for links to suppliers. A 2-way resistive splitter loses 6dB. If you think of an 8-way splitter as one 2-way feeding two 2-ways feeding four two-way splitters, the loss will be 3 x 6 = 18dB. It will still be 18dB no matter how you configure the splitter(s). As the Aurora has a nominal output of +16dBmV, each splitter output will be -2dBmv which is lower that the generally accepted 0dBmV limit and this doesn't take account the cable loss. Don't be surprised if your sets display poor contrast or noisy picture, depending on the overall gain.
Good quality inductive splitter(s), no matter how they are configured, will have an overall loss of no more than 11dB, which leaves +5dBmv at each output when fed by an Aurora, right in the middle of the usual limits of 0dBmV to +10dBmV. Again, this will be slightly less after taking cable losses into account.
There are other downsides to resistive splitters regarding poor isolation but, as you've already blown your signal budget, there's no point explaining that here!
2. No.
3. No. The Aurora doesn't care a hoot what happens to the signal beyond its output socket! Provided you don't try to feed anything nasty back the other way, you can't/won't damage it.
You will need to use F connectors for the splitters and the output of the Aurora, so stick to them. If you use F connectors on both ends of your cables, you can also get good quality F to coax adaptors for the aerial sockets of your set - much less fiddling around than with a Belling style plug!
As for cable, what is it - not solid delectric, I hope, and is it actually 75Ω cable, not 50Ω? Not RG6, I hope.
RG6 is a type, not a specification, and quality, especially with regard to screening, can be very variable. CT100, on the other hand, is a specification. The original CT100 was semi-airspaced and kinked easily whilst its WF100 and PF100 successors are foam filled dielectric and much less liable to damage, especially on 'loose' runs. WF100 is made by Webro and PF100 is made by Philex, otherwise they are identical.
