16-12-2018, 05:00 PM
It's most likely connected to the output of the adjacent 5V voltage regulator, and so it's worth checking if the IC survived the ordeal. It might be fine, or it might give no output voltage (hopefully), or it might simply pass the input voltage straight through to the output, which could cause further damage.
Of course, you might already know the answer to this - have you powered the player up yet? If not, it might be wise to use a variac and if the output voltage from the regulator rises above 5V. In my experience, they usually fail safely to 0V when they've been abused, but not all the time.
In my experience those modern yellow tants are actually very reliable. It's unfortunate (but understandable) that they often end up being them across supply rails, because when they do go short, the results are often dramatic. But I've had regular electros do exactly the same. On balance, I'm not wholly convinced they are much less reliable, it's just that their failures are more memorable.
In this case, you might as well do them all because of the difficulties of getting the PCB out, but that mechanical issue is the only reason to change them IMHO. I doubt the others are likely to fail any time soon - you've just been unlucky.
No doubt others will be along to tell me how wrong I am, but I'm young enough to not have been bothered by the earlier ones ("beware the blue tants"), and I've always used them conservatively and sparingly. I can only recall one failure (it was a dramatic, smoky one) in the last 20 years, but couldn't begin to guess at the number of electrolytics that I've replaced in that time.
Today, modern electrolytic caps are much better than they used to be, and will work as well as a tant does in most (though not all) situations, so there's less reason to fit them now. And at least most modern electrolytic types fail with a bit less smoke and drama than tants. However, leaking electros wreck PCBs - especially the infamous SMT types that were so popular back in the '90s. I've spent hours working on a bit of Tek gear (a bit of a monster, frankly) with countless faults caused by those, and I know that the repairs are only temporary because before much longer some other fault will emerge as the result of corrosion silently taking place under an IC or similar. I wish they had used tants, frankly. The very thin PCB tracks from the vias from the inner power plane layers to the top to make contact with the pads are so very thin that they would have act as fuses!
Of course, you might already know the answer to this - have you powered the player up yet? If not, it might be wise to use a variac and if the output voltage from the regulator rises above 5V. In my experience, they usually fail safely to 0V when they've been abused, but not all the time.
In my experience those modern yellow tants are actually very reliable. It's unfortunate (but understandable) that they often end up being them across supply rails, because when they do go short, the results are often dramatic. But I've had regular electros do exactly the same. On balance, I'm not wholly convinced they are much less reliable, it's just that their failures are more memorable.
In this case, you might as well do them all because of the difficulties of getting the PCB out, but that mechanical issue is the only reason to change them IMHO. I doubt the others are likely to fail any time soon - you've just been unlucky.
No doubt others will be along to tell me how wrong I am, but I'm young enough to not have been bothered by the earlier ones ("beware the blue tants"), and I've always used them conservatively and sparingly. I can only recall one failure (it was a dramatic, smoky one) in the last 20 years, but couldn't begin to guess at the number of electrolytics that I've replaced in that time.
Today, modern electrolytic caps are much better than they used to be, and will work as well as a tant does in most (though not all) situations, so there's less reason to fit them now. And at least most modern electrolytic types fail with a bit less smoke and drama than tants. However, leaking electros wreck PCBs - especially the infamous SMT types that were so popular back in the '90s. I've spent hours working on a bit of Tek gear (a bit of a monster, frankly) with countless faults caused by those, and I know that the repairs are only temporary because before much longer some other fault will emerge as the result of corrosion silently taking place under an IC or similar. I wish they had used tants, frankly. The very thin PCB tracks from the vias from the inner power plane layers to the top to make contact with the pads are so very thin that they would have act as fuses!
