The new capacitor block is complete, I used a secondhand tag board to mount the new polyester capacitors on.
The reservoir cap should be 4uF, the smoothing one 4uF and there are 2 more 2uF's and a 0.1uF, making a total of 12.1uF, as stated on the top of the box.
The open circuit on the choke was just 1 out of the 3 sections, so I have bridged the faulty section. Because the effect of the choke will be less I have doubled up on the smoothing cap to help compensate.
I may have to fit a dropper resistor in the circuit to compensate for the lost windings on the speaker energising coil and choke. I still haven't worked out the rest of the circuit yet so I am not sure if the energising coil is across the HT or in series, KB have used both an energising coil and choke in series on other models.
Here is the new capacitor block
and here it is fitted to the PSU chassis.
I heated the base of the capacitor block can with an electric blow lamp, till the solder melted then pulled the whole base off.
Once off, further heat was used to soften all the pitch inside enough to pull the guts out.
The base of the cap block was cut down to allow the metal case to fit over the new capacitor block. It was then re-soldered to the can so that the existing mounting holes could be reused. All the heat had caused some marking to the original green paint so the whole can was resprayed, even though it will be hidden in the PSU when the cover is on.
Here is the power supply fully assembled but with the cover off.
The ripstop material arrived today, and I have cut out a piece for the new diaphragm surround.
As this is a bit of an experiment I will update when I know it has all gone well and the speaker is working again.
Mike
p.s. Have you seen a 5 amp plug like this before, I have never heard of Goltone
The reservoir cap should be 4uF, the smoothing one 4uF and there are 2 more 2uF's and a 0.1uF, making a total of 12.1uF, as stated on the top of the box.
The open circuit on the choke was just 1 out of the 3 sections, so I have bridged the faulty section. Because the effect of the choke will be less I have doubled up on the smoothing cap to help compensate.
I may have to fit a dropper resistor in the circuit to compensate for the lost windings on the speaker energising coil and choke. I still haven't worked out the rest of the circuit yet so I am not sure if the energising coil is across the HT or in series, KB have used both an energising coil and choke in series on other models.
Here is the new capacitor block
and here it is fitted to the PSU chassis.
I heated the base of the capacitor block can with an electric blow lamp, till the solder melted then pulled the whole base off.
Once off, further heat was used to soften all the pitch inside enough to pull the guts out.
The base of the cap block was cut down to allow the metal case to fit over the new capacitor block. It was then re-soldered to the can so that the existing mounting holes could be reused. All the heat had caused some marking to the original green paint so the whole can was resprayed, even though it will be hidden in the PSU when the cover is on.
Here is the power supply fully assembled but with the cover off.
The ripstop material arrived today, and I have cut out a piece for the new diaphragm surround.
As this is a bit of an experiment I will update when I know it has all gone well and the speaker is working again.
Mike
p.s. Have you seen a 5 amp plug like this before, I have never heard of Goltone
