Hacker RP25

[Crackle]

It's worth saying that although the blue Philips/Mullard capacitors are generally very reliable, I note a couple of other types - probably DALY? These are known for leaking heavily. Of the two I can see, one is the decoupler for the AM IF panel - heavy leakage can bring down the HT and cause weak signals (and if the ESR goes high, it can cause whistles and squeaks as you tune across the band - and ultimately can stop LW working). I'd change this on sight, but that's obviously a personal decision. The other one looks like the output coupling capacitor. If it leaks, it'll increase the quiescent current, but hopefully won't do much harm beyond this. If it falls in value (or rises in ESR) then the audio quality will be affected. Again, I'd replace it on-spec, but that's just me

The 3rd Sovereign II to repair was a Blue RP25A. The fault on this was LW not working, MW and FM were both OK.
Exactly as Mark noted above, the Daly electrolytic C21 350uF, the AM decoupling capacitor, was leaking badly it had an ESR of over 9 ohms. I changed it for a 470uF 25v one and LW worked immediately. This was the only Daly electrolytic in the radio. The brass leads broke off as I straightened them where they were bent over the coper track. The same sort of thing happens to those red and black Plessey caps with the yellow label, and they also tend to leak. So I have found in the past that they also generally need changing on sight.
Both LW and MW needed realigning, FM was OK so that has not been touched.
In this radio a couple of screws holding the chassis bits together had come out, these were replaced.
Someone had bypassed the earphone socket, so I rectified this and gave the socket a good spray with Servisol & clean and exercise with inserting a plug in it numerous times.
The tuning knob had a cracked split shaft bush under the spring clip and this has been glued with epoxy which is still curing.
Photo of the radio when the case is back together. Meanwhile here is a photo of the Daly capacitor.
Mike