18-06-2015, 09:38 AM
Excellent project Alan - very well executed.
I became very dispirited when I saw your excellent drawings in the first post, and it's been all downhill from then on!.
Another wizard with CAD - I am not worthy!
Re waterslide transfers, fitting them is an acquired skill, and of course the larger the transfer, the greater the challenge. You have to make sure that the whole transfer is ready to slide off the backing paper, then slowly ease it off at one end, gently smoothing it down with a piece of stiff card to get rid of any bubbles. When it's in place, you do get a little while to gently align it if it isn't quite lined up correctly, but if you take too big an area off the backing paper and the transfer wrinkles up, it's a write-off. Most of what I've done have been small in size - logo transfers for cabinets, labels for valves or smoothing caps, like the ones attached. I've also made them for the rear of glass radio dials with mixed success. They look fine printed in reverse and stuck to the rear of the glass, but the ink isn't opaque enough so the lettering doesn't stand out well. (I've tried all the printer settings). However, on a painted background on radios that have a clear window, such as the Roberts 'RT1' etc, they're fine. They're not very flexible for convex or concave surfaces such as the valve shown below - they tend to crinkle up a little, but they're OK on cylindrical objects, such as smoothing caps.
Crafty Computer Paper sell various 'decal' paper (decal being the American terms for 'transfers'), for both ink-jet and laser printers and you can have white or clear paper, depending on what the transfer is to be used for. Obviously the white is opaque, but does give the ability to have what looks like white print, which of course you can't ordinarily do on a normal printer. I've been quite surprised at how durable and robust the transfers are, but I've not used them yet for front panels - I usually use paper, encapsulated and covered with 2.5mm acrylic, like the Wobbulator front panel below. Sometimes for simpler projects I use Dymo labels - the modern tape which the peel off backing, which is what I used for the Mosfet Voltmeter.
At the Crafty Computer Paper website there are examples of transfers and short videos of how to use them:
http://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk/.In...er_151.htm
I became very dispirited when I saw your excellent drawings in the first post, and it's been all downhill from then on!.
Another wizard with CAD - I am not worthy!
Re waterslide transfers, fitting them is an acquired skill, and of course the larger the transfer, the greater the challenge. You have to make sure that the whole transfer is ready to slide off the backing paper, then slowly ease it off at one end, gently smoothing it down with a piece of stiff card to get rid of any bubbles. When it's in place, you do get a little while to gently align it if it isn't quite lined up correctly, but if you take too big an area off the backing paper and the transfer wrinkles up, it's a write-off. Most of what I've done have been small in size - logo transfers for cabinets, labels for valves or smoothing caps, like the ones attached. I've also made them for the rear of glass radio dials with mixed success. They look fine printed in reverse and stuck to the rear of the glass, but the ink isn't opaque enough so the lettering doesn't stand out well. (I've tried all the printer settings). However, on a painted background on radios that have a clear window, such as the Roberts 'RT1' etc, they're fine. They're not very flexible for convex or concave surfaces such as the valve shown below - they tend to crinkle up a little, but they're OK on cylindrical objects, such as smoothing caps.
Crafty Computer Paper sell various 'decal' paper (decal being the American terms for 'transfers'), for both ink-jet and laser printers and you can have white or clear paper, depending on what the transfer is to be used for. Obviously the white is opaque, but does give the ability to have what looks like white print, which of course you can't ordinarily do on a normal printer. I've been quite surprised at how durable and robust the transfers are, but I've not used them yet for front panels - I usually use paper, encapsulated and covered with 2.5mm acrylic, like the Wobbulator front panel below. Sometimes for simpler projects I use Dymo labels - the modern tape which the peel off backing, which is what I used for the Mosfet Voltmeter.
At the Crafty Computer Paper website there are examples of transfers and short videos of how to use them:
http://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk/.In...er_151.htm
Regards, David.
BVWS Member.
G-QRP Club Member 1339.
'I'm in my own little world, but I'm happy, and they know me here'
BVWS Member.
G-QRP Club Member 1339.
'I'm in my own little world, but I'm happy, and they know me here'
