08-05-2014, 11:06 AM
Hi,
Many thanks for the information Lawrence. I agree tubbed putty is a right pain to use and rolled is much more convenient. I've always used tubbed putty previously because it is so widely available and cheap. Tubbed putty varies a great deal depending on make and age; the wet greasy type is a downright pain to work up sticking to everything making it uncomfortable to handle.
I don't know where I got the idea from but I always thought common glazing putty to be flour and linseed oil?
We all know this putty has been around for millions of years but the following hasn't;
http://www.crowndecoratorcentre.co.uk/Pr...102012.pdf
I'm sure these days just getting out of bed imposes some serious risk to our health?
A quick browse on the web revealed the following;
Putty[edit]
Traditional glazing putty, consisting of a paste of chalk powder and linseed oil, is a sealant for glass windows that hardens within a few weeks of application and can then be painted over. The utility of putty is owed to the drying properties of linseed oil.
Using tubbed putty I always applied this to the frame rebate in the form of a wedge then the glass bedded both on the face and edges just leaving the second face to bed before trimming off.
On the larger sized units I've always struggled handling them working on my own especially seating them on the bottom rebate so for this job I'm planning to buy a pair of "sucker" grips which are cheap enough and will clear my hands from the unit edges.
Regarding why the sealed units fail Refugee and Lawrence obviously moisture has gained access and I can understand the theory in letting any water out which could cause a problem but on our 50 year old units they are fully bedded on putty without recourse to adding run off channels etc. As long as the putty is applied without voids then it should afford an additional seal as with our units. The units must really suffer punishment during their lifetime with constant changes of temperature and humidity attacking the seals both from without and within.
Do you remember the lovely looking Luan doors that were supplied in great quantities about 30 years ago many with intricately carved panels Gary? These quickly disappeared but I wonder how many would have survived if they had been installed and protected correctly; the top and bottom edges of doors tend to be ignored but it is these two edges especially the bottom edge which laps up lots of moisture leading to early rotting; I ensure all our exterior doors are fully sealed with undercoat and gloss paint so have never had a problem. One thing about timber frames is that any rot can be cut out and new timber spliced in.
One interesting point I forgot to mention is that two of our neighbours have suffered problems with their plastic framed window hardware; the hinge units have failed and our immediate neighbour hasn't been able to open her windows for many years because they will not remain open; our wooden frames have very basic heavy duty old fashioned hinges and casement stays that do their job year in year out.
I'm certainly not an expert on double glazing hence I intend to stick with what I know to have worked here for the last 50 years but improvements in glass technology I do need to seriously look into because of energy saving; aesthetics and of course current regulations.
Kind regards, Col.
Many thanks for the information Lawrence. I agree tubbed putty is a right pain to use and rolled is much more convenient. I've always used tubbed putty previously because it is so widely available and cheap. Tubbed putty varies a great deal depending on make and age; the wet greasy type is a downright pain to work up sticking to everything making it uncomfortable to handle.
I don't know where I got the idea from but I always thought common glazing putty to be flour and linseed oil?
We all know this putty has been around for millions of years but the following hasn't;
http://www.crowndecoratorcentre.co.uk/Pr...102012.pdf
I'm sure these days just getting out of bed imposes some serious risk to our health?
A quick browse on the web revealed the following;
Putty[edit]
Traditional glazing putty, consisting of a paste of chalk powder and linseed oil, is a sealant for glass windows that hardens within a few weeks of application and can then be painted over. The utility of putty is owed to the drying properties of linseed oil.
Using tubbed putty I always applied this to the frame rebate in the form of a wedge then the glass bedded both on the face and edges just leaving the second face to bed before trimming off.
On the larger sized units I've always struggled handling them working on my own especially seating them on the bottom rebate so for this job I'm planning to buy a pair of "sucker" grips which are cheap enough and will clear my hands from the unit edges.
Regarding why the sealed units fail Refugee and Lawrence obviously moisture has gained access and I can understand the theory in letting any water out which could cause a problem but on our 50 year old units they are fully bedded on putty without recourse to adding run off channels etc. As long as the putty is applied without voids then it should afford an additional seal as with our units. The units must really suffer punishment during their lifetime with constant changes of temperature and humidity attacking the seals both from without and within.
Do you remember the lovely looking Luan doors that were supplied in great quantities about 30 years ago many with intricately carved panels Gary? These quickly disappeared but I wonder how many would have survived if they had been installed and protected correctly; the top and bottom edges of doors tend to be ignored but it is these two edges especially the bottom edge which laps up lots of moisture leading to early rotting; I ensure all our exterior doors are fully sealed with undercoat and gloss paint so have never had a problem. One thing about timber frames is that any rot can be cut out and new timber spliced in.
One interesting point I forgot to mention is that two of our neighbours have suffered problems with their plastic framed window hardware; the hinge units have failed and our immediate neighbour hasn't been able to open her windows for many years because they will not remain open; our wooden frames have very basic heavy duty old fashioned hinges and casement stays that do their job year in year out.
I'm certainly not an expert on double glazing hence I intend to stick with what I know to have worked here for the last 50 years but improvements in glass technology I do need to seriously look into because of energy saving; aesthetics and of course current regulations.
Kind regards, Col.
Happiness is a wreck of a cabinet to restore.
