05-05-2014, 01:19 PM
Hi,
The wheels on my saw measure 12" diameter Bob this includes the tyres.
I've just had a look and the guide bar on my saw is simply a piece of round bar stock with a long flat machined on it; this flat is not full length of the bar. Have you completely removed the locking adjuster knob because if the knob is only slackened and the bar is being removed downhill the un-machined part of the bar will lock the bar solid.
The cast iron frame is quite strong in this section but I would still treat it with respect. One method you could try to remove the bar is to rig up a press using two long threaded rods and nuts with two cross bars of heavy gauge steel the bottom bar having a clearance hole to allow the guide bar through the top bar being solid. These bars also being drilled clearance to accept the threaded rods. Slip the bottom bar with the hole locating it against the frame; the top bar to act as a press against the guide end by tightening the nuts on the threaded rods; this should get the guide bar moving without causing any further damage? Two short lengths of heavy gauge channel iron would be ideal for the bars.
Hopefully by now you will have removed the top wheel without trouble?
Kind regards, Col.
The wheels on my saw measure 12" diameter Bob this includes the tyres.
I've just had a look and the guide bar on my saw is simply a piece of round bar stock with a long flat machined on it; this flat is not full length of the bar. Have you completely removed the locking adjuster knob because if the knob is only slackened and the bar is being removed downhill the un-machined part of the bar will lock the bar solid.
The cast iron frame is quite strong in this section but I would still treat it with respect. One method you could try to remove the bar is to rig up a press using two long threaded rods and nuts with two cross bars of heavy gauge steel the bottom bar having a clearance hole to allow the guide bar through the top bar being solid. These bars also being drilled clearance to accept the threaded rods. Slip the bottom bar with the hole locating it against the frame; the top bar to act as a press against the guide end by tightening the nuts on the threaded rods; this should get the guide bar moving without causing any further damage? Two short lengths of heavy gauge channel iron would be ideal for the bars.
Hopefully by now you will have removed the top wheel without trouble?
Kind regards, Col.
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