04-05-2014, 08:15 PM
Hi,
Yes Bob, take it gently with cast iron because it can easily be fractured. The guide bar is obviously jammed as you say and at the moment I can't check mine because the car is blocking access but I'll have a look tomorrow. I'll also measure the wheels but I think they are 12" diameter. Thanks for the pictures; the more information the better because information on these band-saws is scarce.
I'm not at all a fan of penetrating fluids because they never work for me; tapping with a hammer adding a wooden block for protection isn't possibly working because the wood is cushioning the hammer blows; metal to metal in this case sounds drastic and a lot of care is needed otherwise the project will stop dead with a broken casting. The guide needs vibrating free; do you have an SDS drill? If so you could try using this in chisel mode with a metal packing piece between the tip and the guide; it's just an idea but again care would be needed; once the seal is broken then the guide can be worked free; the problem is that these guides are a very close fit in the bore which is needed otherwise blade tracking could suffer?
Please leave this guide until I've had a look at mine but in the meantime you can remove the top band wheel; with the three screws removed the dust cap will release then wipe away the old grease and dirt which should reveal the ring nut; with the ring nut removed the wheel should pull free leaving the spindle in place; I don't think I removed the spindle on mine because it was very tight so I worked around it without trouble.
When it comes to cast iron its difficult explaining how much force to use; it's instinct with me knowing what I can get away with but I've had lots of practice. I restored an AVO wave winder a few years ago and this too had a locked shaft; I tried tapping it and I even blasted it with a blow lamp on full but it wouldn't budge so I made up a special clamp with lever and clamped the shaft very tightly; this broke the seal by twisting then the shaft could be gradually worked out. I need to look at my guide bar then perhaps I can suggest a way of releasing yours? It's a difficult call because too much force or even too much localized heat can fracture castings so I can't stress too much to exercise restraint; the guide will eventually come out when it has messed you around enough. I'll get back to you tomorrow.
I've managed to find a picture of the clamp I made for releasing the AVO shaft; it looks crude but it worked a treat without fracturing the casting which as you can see is very flimsy and this shaft releasing job really did test my patience to the limit; I used off-cuts for the clamp.
Kind regards, Col.
Yes Bob, take it gently with cast iron because it can easily be fractured. The guide bar is obviously jammed as you say and at the moment I can't check mine because the car is blocking access but I'll have a look tomorrow. I'll also measure the wheels but I think they are 12" diameter. Thanks for the pictures; the more information the better because information on these band-saws is scarce.
I'm not at all a fan of penetrating fluids because they never work for me; tapping with a hammer adding a wooden block for protection isn't possibly working because the wood is cushioning the hammer blows; metal to metal in this case sounds drastic and a lot of care is needed otherwise the project will stop dead with a broken casting. The guide needs vibrating free; do you have an SDS drill? If so you could try using this in chisel mode with a metal packing piece between the tip and the guide; it's just an idea but again care would be needed; once the seal is broken then the guide can be worked free; the problem is that these guides are a very close fit in the bore which is needed otherwise blade tracking could suffer?
Please leave this guide until I've had a look at mine but in the meantime you can remove the top band wheel; with the three screws removed the dust cap will release then wipe away the old grease and dirt which should reveal the ring nut; with the ring nut removed the wheel should pull free leaving the spindle in place; I don't think I removed the spindle on mine because it was very tight so I worked around it without trouble.
When it comes to cast iron its difficult explaining how much force to use; it's instinct with me knowing what I can get away with but I've had lots of practice. I restored an AVO wave winder a few years ago and this too had a locked shaft; I tried tapping it and I even blasted it with a blow lamp on full but it wouldn't budge so I made up a special clamp with lever and clamped the shaft very tightly; this broke the seal by twisting then the shaft could be gradually worked out. I need to look at my guide bar then perhaps I can suggest a way of releasing yours? It's a difficult call because too much force or even too much localized heat can fracture castings so I can't stress too much to exercise restraint; the guide will eventually come out when it has messed you around enough. I'll get back to you tomorrow.
I've managed to find a picture of the clamp I made for releasing the AVO shaft; it looks crude but it worked a treat without fracturing the casting which as you can see is very flimsy and this shaft releasing job really did test my patience to the limit; I used off-cuts for the clamp.
Kind regards, Col.
Happiness is a wreck of a cabinet to restore.
