30-03-2014, 10:19 AM
You can use waterproof PVA for window frames, if the frame is installed correctly then it will not be subject to any stress, the frame needs to be screwed to the masonry/timber and any gaps filled.
It can be used on casements too, I suspect some window manufactures use it, In my experience PVA makes a strong joint.
I used it externally on the last place we lived in, due to the length of the house the guttering board had to be made up in three lengths, they were just butt jointed using a timber cleat glued on the back with PVA plus a couple of screws, they were up there for the best part of twenty years before we moved, there was no sign of any failure, done the same here too.
The crunch with DIY windows is good fitting joints, you don't want the glue as a "gap" filler, they also need to be designed to reduce the risk of moisture retention, the wooden windows we took out had the bottom glazing bar set on a couple of spacer blocks with no sealant used, that enabled the bottom rail of the casement to free drain at all times.
It's worth popping down to a window stockists to see the profiling/weather proofing arrangements on a modern storm proof window to see how it's done.
If you are the worrying type I would go for Aerolite or Cascamite etc.
Lawrence.
It can be used on casements too, I suspect some window manufactures use it, In my experience PVA makes a strong joint.
I used it externally on the last place we lived in, due to the length of the house the guttering board had to be made up in three lengths, they were just butt jointed using a timber cleat glued on the back with PVA plus a couple of screws, they were up there for the best part of twenty years before we moved, there was no sign of any failure, done the same here too.
The crunch with DIY windows is good fitting joints, you don't want the glue as a "gap" filler, they also need to be designed to reduce the risk of moisture retention, the wooden windows we took out had the bottom glazing bar set on a couple of spacer blocks with no sealant used, that enabled the bottom rail of the casement to free drain at all times.
It's worth popping down to a window stockists to see the profiling/weather proofing arrangements on a modern storm proof window to see how it's done.
If you are the worrying type I would go for Aerolite or Cascamite etc.
Lawrence.
