25-10-2013, 10:32 AM
Col, I don't quite follow the analogy, the only thing stopping the blade twisting within the zone of cutting are the blade guides, if the guides are set correctly then the blade can't twist to any meaningful amount unless undue forces are exerted on it when cutting.
For accuracy in long ripping cuts the plate saw is the best saw to use as that is what it is designed to do, the problem with small bandsaws is that they are not really up to the job for deep long straight cut ripping due to the limited tension and feed speed that can be applied to the blade, for accurate ripping with a bandsaw the band has to be able to resist any forces applied to it taking into account the depth and type of timber etc, a narrow band can only be tensioned up to a certain force and in general that force is comparatively low.
When we used small bandsaws the use was limited to curved cuts, tennon cuts and cutting wedges, it was fine for that, anything more than that was was done on other machinery more suited to the job.
Re crowning band wheels is a specialized job, not really a job for the average DIYer.
For fast accurate ripping with a bandsaw the minimum blade width is about 32 mm, having said that I used to run a Wadkin bandsaw, that saw had 600mm bandwheels with rubber tyres and took a 2" or 3" blade (can't remember which) It would struggle cutting 9" deep timber at a reasonable feed rate.
For solid cast bandwheels the gullet has to overhang the wheel otherwise the band will crack.
Lawrence.
For accuracy in long ripping cuts the plate saw is the best saw to use as that is what it is designed to do, the problem with small bandsaws is that they are not really up to the job for deep long straight cut ripping due to the limited tension and feed speed that can be applied to the blade, for accurate ripping with a bandsaw the band has to be able to resist any forces applied to it taking into account the depth and type of timber etc, a narrow band can only be tensioned up to a certain force and in general that force is comparatively low.
When we used small bandsaws the use was limited to curved cuts, tennon cuts and cutting wedges, it was fine for that, anything more than that was was done on other machinery more suited to the job.
Re crowning band wheels is a specialized job, not really a job for the average DIYer.
For fast accurate ripping with a bandsaw the minimum blade width is about 32 mm, having said that I used to run a Wadkin bandsaw, that saw had 600mm bandwheels with rubber tyres and took a 2" or 3" blade (can't remember which) It would struggle cutting 9" deep timber at a reasonable feed rate.
For solid cast bandwheels the gullet has to overhang the wheel otherwise the band will crack.
Lawrence.
