Hi,
Thanks for taking so much trouble Lawrence in adding your information and the video.
You say you've only ever used wide band saws? I've never used a wide bandsaw but owned a number of narrow band saws which I added this thread about. Do you have any friends running narrow band saws Lawrence?
The video you kindly posted shows exactly how I set up my band saws taking great care to get it right only for the band saw to give poor straight line cutting performance. The pictures below show my big Startrite Volant 24" band saw in action cutting only 2" thick hardwood. As can be seen the band is running true on the center of the wheel; both top and bottom guides are set to just clear the band; the top guide is set as it should be just above the work and a brand new Starrett band has just been installed. I truly despaired at the terrible cut which wandered as can be seen in the picture. The band wasn't oscillating but ran perfectly true on the wheels and the wheels were also true. I did everything but take a big hammer to it and this is the reason I posted this thread. The timber on the left is straight; the timber on the right is the one I cut using the Startrite.
The tyres were in good condition and the band correctly tensioned it being an 1/2" wide band of 6 tpi. The angle iron fence was accurately set parallel with the band.
For over 20 years I've read how to set up narrow band saws and all describe how to set up as the video you posted. I've also read how bands "lead" in one direction or another and even tried to compensate for this.
I've now sold the Startrite and replaced it with a smaller Wilmac with a 6" deep cut and 12" throat. I've set the Wilmac up exactly as Alex shows in his video and I can now cut straight lines. I cut 6' lengths of timber with the fence set by eye without trouble. I wonder how many in the audience watching Alex has had the same troubles I've experienced and this is just one audience. The band on the Wilmac is an old worn one which came with the band saw and when I tried to rip 4" thick timber it produced lots of smoke so I didn't continue.
I've tried the method shown in your video for so many years without success but now using Alex's method suddenly my band saw is running very nicely indeed. No offence at all meant Lawrence but I've tried both methods on my narrow band saws and Alex's wins for me. Alex is obviously demonstrating with the intention of selling his expensive "Carter guides" and he openly states the method he uses to set up band saws is his own; I'm now thinking how to make a copy of the Carter narrow band guide the one with the groove in it? I'll be buying a selection of new bands shortly including a couple of 1/8" wide bands because these look wicked at cutting thick timber at speed and in very tight curves.
I had quite a bit of hardwood to cut into turning blanks and after trying to cut on the Startrite gave up in disgust resorting to running the timber through my saw bench.
Kind regards, Col.
Thanks for taking so much trouble Lawrence in adding your information and the video.
You say you've only ever used wide band saws? I've never used a wide bandsaw but owned a number of narrow band saws which I added this thread about. Do you have any friends running narrow band saws Lawrence?
The video you kindly posted shows exactly how I set up my band saws taking great care to get it right only for the band saw to give poor straight line cutting performance. The pictures below show my big Startrite Volant 24" band saw in action cutting only 2" thick hardwood. As can be seen the band is running true on the center of the wheel; both top and bottom guides are set to just clear the band; the top guide is set as it should be just above the work and a brand new Starrett band has just been installed. I truly despaired at the terrible cut which wandered as can be seen in the picture. The band wasn't oscillating but ran perfectly true on the wheels and the wheels were also true. I did everything but take a big hammer to it and this is the reason I posted this thread. The timber on the left is straight; the timber on the right is the one I cut using the Startrite.
The tyres were in good condition and the band correctly tensioned it being an 1/2" wide band of 6 tpi. The angle iron fence was accurately set parallel with the band.
For over 20 years I've read how to set up narrow band saws and all describe how to set up as the video you posted. I've also read how bands "lead" in one direction or another and even tried to compensate for this.
I've now sold the Startrite and replaced it with a smaller Wilmac with a 6" deep cut and 12" throat. I've set the Wilmac up exactly as Alex shows in his video and I can now cut straight lines. I cut 6' lengths of timber with the fence set by eye without trouble. I wonder how many in the audience watching Alex has had the same troubles I've experienced and this is just one audience. The band on the Wilmac is an old worn one which came with the band saw and when I tried to rip 4" thick timber it produced lots of smoke so I didn't continue.
I've tried the method shown in your video for so many years without success but now using Alex's method suddenly my band saw is running very nicely indeed. No offence at all meant Lawrence but I've tried both methods on my narrow band saws and Alex's wins for me. Alex is obviously demonstrating with the intention of selling his expensive "Carter guides" and he openly states the method he uses to set up band saws is his own; I'm now thinking how to make a copy of the Carter narrow band guide the one with the groove in it? I'll be buying a selection of new bands shortly including a couple of 1/8" wide bands because these look wicked at cutting thick timber at speed and in very tight curves.
I had quite a bit of hardwood to cut into turning blanks and after trying to cut on the Startrite gave up in disgust resorting to running the timber through my saw bench.
Kind regards, Col.
Happiness is a wreck of a cabinet to restore.
