23-10-2013, 07:55 PM
I'm still not convinced about the blade not being set to makers specs on the bandwheel.
In my experience in sawing timber the following are the main causes for the blade not cutting straight:
Worn or cracked blade, offset or inconsistant swages or set.
Incorrect band wheel tension, ie: the tension the blade is under between the two band wheels.
Incorrect blade tension, ie: some blades need to be periodically roller tensioned when at the saw doctors.
Incorrect setting of the blade guides.
Incorrect timber feed speed (including cutting through knots or interlocking grain species)
Incorrect guide height.
Fence not parallel to the blade or visa versa.
As said the only way to get a tighter cutting radius is to use a narrower blade, or increase the swage/set.
Some of the above defects can be frigged to a certain extent but it will only mask an underlying problem.
Lawrence.
In my experience in sawing timber the following are the main causes for the blade not cutting straight:
Worn or cracked blade, offset or inconsistant swages or set.
Incorrect band wheel tension, ie: the tension the blade is under between the two band wheels.
Incorrect blade tension, ie: some blades need to be periodically roller tensioned when at the saw doctors.
Incorrect setting of the blade guides.
Incorrect timber feed speed (including cutting through knots or interlocking grain species)
Incorrect guide height.
Fence not parallel to the blade or visa versa.
As said the only way to get a tighter cutting radius is to use a narrower blade, or increase the swage/set.
Some of the above defects can be frigged to a certain extent but it will only mask an underlying problem.
Lawrence.
