13-09-2013, 04:52 PM
I'll trace it out tomorrow pm but it's really simple and nothing is critical, It worked straight off with components I had lying around. the box was a tourist souvenir thingy with nautical knots on top,and was the most expensive bit. I have found that most O/P valves work really well on low volts ie 6V6s, 6L6s, El34s, DL91 etc.
The PL,UL etc ranges are quite good if you have mains transformers with odd volts so you can run the heaters and rectify for HT off the same winding.
12V upwards, although I once made a superegen with a 6V6 on 9V. On 25V they're really lively. With pentodes you can swap the grids around like g1 with +V and signal on G2 or G3 etc.
Staying under 30V also means that providing you stay clear of the mains terminals you are not going to get a lethal belt and the risks are basically the same as with transistor equipment.
Have fun
Mike
The PL,UL etc ranges are quite good if you have mains transformers with odd volts so you can run the heaters and rectify for HT off the same winding.
12V upwards, although I once made a superegen with a 6V6 on 9V. On 25V they're really lively. With pentodes you can swap the grids around like g1 with +V and signal on G2 or G3 etc.
Staying under 30V also means that providing you stay clear of the mains terminals you are not going to get a lethal belt and the risks are basically the same as with transistor equipment.
Have fun
Mike
