17-07-2013, 04:07 PM
Col, you might have misunderstood me, the idea is to take the Logosol to a site where the trees are on the ground ie: woodland, estate, farmers field etc. It wouldn't be worth buying one to convert one tree at home.
I can roll logs up the ramp on my own using a peavy, the ramps I made give a rise to the log bed of the Logosol over a distance of 8 ft, from memory the log bed is around 2 ft off the ground so the ramps raise the log to 2 ft in hieght over the 8 ft distance, if the wife is around she will give me a hand but as said I've done it on my own no problem, just jam your leg/knee against the log when repositioning the peavy to get another grip, you need to position yourself off center of the log in favour of the butt end to keep things balanced.
The other way is to cut some short furrings/wedges and nail them along and up the ramp, this will give you a series of short shallow steps up the ramps which will help stop the log wanting to roll back. The plywood ramps I made will take a ton between them no problem.
The logosol can be used to resaw baulk timber etc, but remember the chainsaw is designed to cut green timber not bone dry stuff, having said that I have resawn dry oak before all be it slower than normal.
The logosol needs to be set level, using boards, bearers, wedges etc.
To increase the time between chain sharpening the trick is to run a jobbing chainsaw along the proposed cut line to remove part of the bark, ie: a quick blaze/shave, it only takes a minute and only needs to be done a couple of times or so while squaring up from the round.
If the chain is running into the bark then the time between resharpening is shortened, ie: the chain dulls quicker, the chain pulling out of the bark has little effect on sharpening periods.
Also the chain has to be a ripping chain, the tooth angle is not the normal 30 degrees or so but around 5 to 7 degrees.
Lawrence.
I can roll logs up the ramp on my own using a peavy, the ramps I made give a rise to the log bed of the Logosol over a distance of 8 ft, from memory the log bed is around 2 ft off the ground so the ramps raise the log to 2 ft in hieght over the 8 ft distance, if the wife is around she will give me a hand but as said I've done it on my own no problem, just jam your leg/knee against the log when repositioning the peavy to get another grip, you need to position yourself off center of the log in favour of the butt end to keep things balanced.
The other way is to cut some short furrings/wedges and nail them along and up the ramp, this will give you a series of short shallow steps up the ramps which will help stop the log wanting to roll back. The plywood ramps I made will take a ton between them no problem.
The logosol can be used to resaw baulk timber etc, but remember the chainsaw is designed to cut green timber not bone dry stuff, having said that I have resawn dry oak before all be it slower than normal.
The logosol needs to be set level, using boards, bearers, wedges etc.
To increase the time between chain sharpening the trick is to run a jobbing chainsaw along the proposed cut line to remove part of the bark, ie: a quick blaze/shave, it only takes a minute and only needs to be done a couple of times or so while squaring up from the round.
If the chain is running into the bark then the time between resharpening is shortened, ie: the chain dulls quicker, the chain pulling out of the bark has little effect on sharpening periods.
Also the chain has to be a ripping chain, the tooth angle is not the normal 30 degrees or so but around 5 to 7 degrees.
Lawrence.
