16-07-2013, 07:36 PM
Hi Col, yes, those stands were first class when done, long shifts though with no days off, not bad money either, I was younger and fitter and hungry then. Once the shows were over it was back on the case for demolition/breakdown.
We did a stand at the NEC once for Mercedes, come the break down everything apart some bits of stainless went for scrap, two throbbulator trucks were driven in to munch up the flooring, 100's of sheets of T&G chipboard as new, all crunched up, same for all the MDF and timber, all built into the contract price I guess.
Timber, yes stickerd and covered on top, preferably with a top horizontal overhang all the way round, some old sheets of plywood or asbestos roofing sheets with a tarp on top weighted down with blocks should do, sticker thickness should be appropriate for the species/dimension etc, use inert plastic or low tannin stickers, some where I have a classic book on the subject but it's well buried somewhere so I can't quote from it.
The inch per year rule is only a rough guide, depends on dimension, locality etc.
If the boards are fresh green off the saw then keep them out of the sun or an intial fast drying wind such as an Easterly in the winter, you can seal the ends and restrain them with straps to help reduce end split, I think the restraint straps are still around but don't ask me where, even so allow a good six inches either end for possible splitting eg: if you end need is 7 ft boards then buy/obtain them at 8 ft or so, normally boards off the saw will have an extra 2" or so over the footed length, eg: 6ft board straight off the log will normally be around 6 ft 2"
If you buying a log in the round with a view to conversion then get used to Hoppus feet, a lot still measure that way.
Now there's an idea for your next big boys toy, get yourself a Logosol chainsaw mill and convert your own, comes in various lengths ie: short bed (around 8/9 ft) or long bed (18ft), they are knock down and will fit in a trailer, pickup or on a roof rack, powered with a Stihl 066 or equivelant chainsaw. They also do a basic model in which a simple guide frame is clamped to the log.
I have one (the long bed version) if set up correctly there are very accurate and the finish is as good as if not better than a bandsaw or plate saw, they are aluminium construction and not heavy, can be assembled in 20 minutes single handed with a spanner and a cordless driver, faster for knock down, the original M5 can be picked up with one hand.
Check out there UK website:
http://www.logosol.co.uk/?gclid=CJb2mYLh...tAodfxYA2w
Lawrence.
We did a stand at the NEC once for Mercedes, come the break down everything apart some bits of stainless went for scrap, two throbbulator trucks were driven in to munch up the flooring, 100's of sheets of T&G chipboard as new, all crunched up, same for all the MDF and timber, all built into the contract price I guess.
Timber, yes stickerd and covered on top, preferably with a top horizontal overhang all the way round, some old sheets of plywood or asbestos roofing sheets with a tarp on top weighted down with blocks should do, sticker thickness should be appropriate for the species/dimension etc, use inert plastic or low tannin stickers, some where I have a classic book on the subject but it's well buried somewhere so I can't quote from it.
The inch per year rule is only a rough guide, depends on dimension, locality etc.
If the boards are fresh green off the saw then keep them out of the sun or an intial fast drying wind such as an Easterly in the winter, you can seal the ends and restrain them with straps to help reduce end split, I think the restraint straps are still around but don't ask me where, even so allow a good six inches either end for possible splitting eg: if you end need is 7 ft boards then buy/obtain them at 8 ft or so, normally boards off the saw will have an extra 2" or so over the footed length, eg: 6ft board straight off the log will normally be around 6 ft 2"
If you buying a log in the round with a view to conversion then get used to Hoppus feet, a lot still measure that way.
Now there's an idea for your next big boys toy, get yourself a Logosol chainsaw mill and convert your own, comes in various lengths ie: short bed (around 8/9 ft) or long bed (18ft), they are knock down and will fit in a trailer, pickup or on a roof rack, powered with a Stihl 066 or equivelant chainsaw. They also do a basic model in which a simple guide frame is clamped to the log.
I have one (the long bed version) if set up correctly there are very accurate and the finish is as good as if not better than a bandsaw or plate saw, they are aluminium construction and not heavy, can be assembled in 20 minutes single handed with a spanner and a cordless driver, faster for knock down, the original M5 can be picked up with one hand.
Check out there UK website:
http://www.logosol.co.uk/?gclid=CJb2mYLh...tAodfxYA2w
Lawrence.
