06-12-2012, 12:10 PM
Hi,
Arc welders are not intended to weld thin gauge steel Robin for the reasons given by Alan and Lawrence above.
Many years ago I've welded patches onto rusty silencers using a small SIP arc welder but it is difficult and I'm experienced. As soon as you strike the arc the metal is gone. Using a base steel sheet won't help either although I can see your reasoning.
I've also tried carbon arc rods these being an attachment to the welder and these are dire. The arc "Flame" has a mind of its own and doesn't melt the metal where intended; I threw the attachment away.
If you are not experienced then even "tacking" as Alan suggests can end up with lots of blow holes; I would agree with Alan that a "Mig" is the way to go on thin gauge metal although I've never used a Mig. I keep intending to buy an automatic welding helmet and these are available at Rufforth Auto Jumble for around £35 but I'm too tight.
I was taught gas (Oxy/acetylene) welding as an apprentice and gas welding is even more difficult to do. Distortion is the main problem as the metal curls up once heated by the flame; on top of this gas cylinders are dangerous.
Brazing affords a good joint but tends to leave a messy joint with lots of distortion and the flux is extremely difficult to remove.
Electric spot welders are a good option but too expensive for a home workshop.
I'd much rather weld an RSJ than thin gauge steel sheet.
Are other options open to you Robin such as pop rivets? Good luck.
Kind regards, Col.
Arc welders are not intended to weld thin gauge steel Robin for the reasons given by Alan and Lawrence above.
Many years ago I've welded patches onto rusty silencers using a small SIP arc welder but it is difficult and I'm experienced. As soon as you strike the arc the metal is gone. Using a base steel sheet won't help either although I can see your reasoning.
I've also tried carbon arc rods these being an attachment to the welder and these are dire. The arc "Flame" has a mind of its own and doesn't melt the metal where intended; I threw the attachment away.
If you are not experienced then even "tacking" as Alan suggests can end up with lots of blow holes; I would agree with Alan that a "Mig" is the way to go on thin gauge metal although I've never used a Mig. I keep intending to buy an automatic welding helmet and these are available at Rufforth Auto Jumble for around £35 but I'm too tight.
I was taught gas (Oxy/acetylene) welding as an apprentice and gas welding is even more difficult to do. Distortion is the main problem as the metal curls up once heated by the flame; on top of this gas cylinders are dangerous.
Brazing affords a good joint but tends to leave a messy joint with lots of distortion and the flux is extremely difficult to remove.
Electric spot welders are a good option but too expensive for a home workshop.
I'd much rather weld an RSJ than thin gauge steel sheet.
Are other options open to you Robin such as pop rivets? Good luck.
Kind regards, Col.
Happiness is a wreck of a cabinet to restore.
