25-10-2012, 12:01 AM
Hi Rob,
Yes, I own one of those. I use it as a 'stand-by' iron. The earlier transformer units have screw terminals for connecting to the iron, so only two wires. The later ones use a 3-pin plug and socket, therefore the iron body is automatically earthed. In mine, I replaced the 2-core cable with a 3-core cable (salvaged from a scrap later model). I fitted a switch in the transformer unit to connect / disconnect the earth to the iron. I reckon that that is what the banana plug 'n' socket is for on yours. There are times when an earthed iron is essential - for example when working on static-sensitive chips - and times when you don't want it earthed - for example, if you are working on a.c. / d.c. equipment (although under those circumstances such an item should always be powered via an isolating transformer).
Two little 'features' to bear in mind.
1. If you discover one day that the bit has gone cold, the chances are that the thermostat switch in the iron handle has failed: they're notorious for doing that.
That switch is replaceable - but it's quite a fiddly job! And you'll need a functional soldering iron to do it - so keep another iron handy for such a repair!
The heating coil has been known to go O/C on the ones I've owned - but that is far less common.
2. When you change the bit and refit the barrel sleeve, take care not to over-tighten it on its screw thread. If you do, it can be a real P-I-T-A to subsequently loosen it!
As has been said above, the bits come in various shapes and temperature ranges. The higher the number, the hotter the bit. I think that #8 is the hottest - but there may be a #9. A #6 is about the commonest: suitable for most tasks.
You've got a good general-purpose iron there - even if, IMHO, you paid a tad too much for it.
Al.
Yes, I own one of those. I use it as a 'stand-by' iron. The earlier transformer units have screw terminals for connecting to the iron, so only two wires. The later ones use a 3-pin plug and socket, therefore the iron body is automatically earthed. In mine, I replaced the 2-core cable with a 3-core cable (salvaged from a scrap later model). I fitted a switch in the transformer unit to connect / disconnect the earth to the iron. I reckon that that is what the banana plug 'n' socket is for on yours. There are times when an earthed iron is essential - for example when working on static-sensitive chips - and times when you don't want it earthed - for example, if you are working on a.c. / d.c. equipment (although under those circumstances such an item should always be powered via an isolating transformer).
Two little 'features' to bear in mind.
1. If you discover one day that the bit has gone cold, the chances are that the thermostat switch in the iron handle has failed: they're notorious for doing that.
That switch is replaceable - but it's quite a fiddly job! And you'll need a functional soldering iron to do it - so keep another iron handy for such a repair!The heating coil has been known to go O/C on the ones I've owned - but that is far less common.
2. When you change the bit and refit the barrel sleeve, take care not to over-tighten it on its screw thread. If you do, it can be a real P-I-T-A to subsequently loosen it!
As has been said above, the bits come in various shapes and temperature ranges. The higher the number, the hotter the bit. I think that #8 is the hottest - but there may be a #9. A #6 is about the commonest: suitable for most tasks.
You've got a good general-purpose iron there - even if, IMHO, you paid a tad too much for it.
Al.
