Thanks for the kind comments guys.
These backs were made from normal 3.2mm hardboard as I couldn't find any oil tempered hardboard locally. Lots of timber merchants sell it, and having made these from normal hardboard, it's reaffirmed my view that oil tempered from which my first backs were made is far superior, and it's no more expensive either. I think I just struck lucky with the first lot I got from B&Q - the same bar code only brings up standard hardboard. I can only guess that it was a batch that their suppliers sent as an alternative at some stage.
I'd endorse Colin's view that for little jobs like this, the cheapest of DIY routers will cope happily. It only has to plunge into 3mm hardboard (or MDF) for a few moments while each slot is cut, using a 6mm or 0.25" router bit. Best to get a decent bit - Trend or whatever. Routers in untrained hands can be vicious items with an unguarded bit, but used in this fashion they're very safe as the bit retracts when the slot has been cut.
Whatever the size of the radio back, the same basic principles apply - some means of holding the blank in place, such as strips of scrap hardboard, and a means of advancing the blank along into the next cutting position for the next slot to be cut, then repeating the process till a whole row has been cut, then repositioning the router guide for the next lower row of slots. The router guide itself has an aperture cut in it to suit the size of the router sole plate, and to allow the sole plate to move up and down by just the extent of the slot to be cut.
Admittedly it take a couple of hours or so to make a jig, but the costs are minimal, and once made it's a lot less laborious and neater than other methods, such as cutting a hole at each end of a slot then using a chisel or fretsaw to cut from one hole to another to make the slot. Something such as a Wartime Civilian Receiver has getting on for ninety slots - the thought of cutting all of those without a jig of some sort doesn't bear thinking about!
As I said earlier, I'm not enamoured by using matt emulsion paint to finish the backs, but can't think of any other finish that is as near to the original as can be had. I use cheap 'tester pots' - I guess vinyl 'silk' might be better, but they seem not to do that in dark brown colours.
The Siemens looks to be another monumental project John, and you've done well to extract the caps from the 'rats' nest' of under chassis wiring and to replace them!
These backs were made from normal 3.2mm hardboard as I couldn't find any oil tempered hardboard locally. Lots of timber merchants sell it, and having made these from normal hardboard, it's reaffirmed my view that oil tempered from which my first backs were made is far superior, and it's no more expensive either. I think I just struck lucky with the first lot I got from B&Q - the same bar code only brings up standard hardboard. I can only guess that it was a batch that their suppliers sent as an alternative at some stage.
I'd endorse Colin's view that for little jobs like this, the cheapest of DIY routers will cope happily. It only has to plunge into 3mm hardboard (or MDF) for a few moments while each slot is cut, using a 6mm or 0.25" router bit. Best to get a decent bit - Trend or whatever. Routers in untrained hands can be vicious items with an unguarded bit, but used in this fashion they're very safe as the bit retracts when the slot has been cut.
Whatever the size of the radio back, the same basic principles apply - some means of holding the blank in place, such as strips of scrap hardboard, and a means of advancing the blank along into the next cutting position for the next slot to be cut, then repeating the process till a whole row has been cut, then repositioning the router guide for the next lower row of slots. The router guide itself has an aperture cut in it to suit the size of the router sole plate, and to allow the sole plate to move up and down by just the extent of the slot to be cut.
Admittedly it take a couple of hours or so to make a jig, but the costs are minimal, and once made it's a lot less laborious and neater than other methods, such as cutting a hole at each end of a slot then using a chisel or fretsaw to cut from one hole to another to make the slot. Something such as a Wartime Civilian Receiver has getting on for ninety slots - the thought of cutting all of those without a jig of some sort doesn't bear thinking about!
As I said earlier, I'm not enamoured by using matt emulsion paint to finish the backs, but can't think of any other finish that is as near to the original as can be had. I use cheap 'tester pots' - I guess vinyl 'silk' might be better, but they seem not to do that in dark brown colours.
The Siemens looks to be another monumental project John, and you've done well to extract the caps from the 'rats' nest' of under chassis wiring and to replace them!
Regards, David.
BVWS Member.
G-QRP Club Member 1339.
'I'm in my own little world, but I'm happy, and they know me here'
BVWS Member.
G-QRP Club Member 1339.
'I'm in my own little world, but I'm happy, and they know me here'
