Bakelite cabinet grille rib rebuild

[Robert Darwent]

However, Balsa - especially when treated with dope, diluted PVA or paint - is surprisingly tough and has found wide favour with model boat builders.

Thanks for all the kind comments, much appreciated.

As David says, balsa is surprisingly strong after being treated with dilute PVA and even more so with a few drops of superglue added. It also seals the porous surface to a smooth finish, ideal for painting over. I found it hardened the balsa to something approaching the strength of the remaining original bakelite spar on my AD75.

Obviously it couldn't withstand trying to lift the set by the spars, but then again neither would the original bakelite I believe. Which is probably why two of the spars were missing from the set in the first place.

I came up with the idea of using balsa because it is so flexible and easy to bend under tension to make the curved spar I required. Plus it is extremely easy to shape with fine sandpaper and trim with a sharp knife. Then when you've got everything to your liking the 'doping' coat sets the shape more or less permanently.

I would say though that Tony's method is the preferred way to go where you are extending a broken section, as in his video. But with my AD75 virtually the entire length of the spars was missing and it was probably simpler to use a length of balsa than shape a metal armature and cover with Milliput or similar.

Both methods are useful ways to restore bakelite cabinets that might otherwise be considered beyond hope. It just depends on the specific area and type of damage as to which method is the simpler to use to effect a satisfactory repair.

Regards