07-05-2012, 02:33 PM
I've been doing some more on this today. The case isn't perfect but is about as good as I think I can get it.
As for the electronics, the RF bypass cap caused the AVO Bridge to flash like a strobe. Changing that improved the volume but it still seemed quiet.
I then screwed my courage up to the sticking plaster and tested the UL41 grid with the VVM. I couldn't see it doing any harm as that is isolated so should have been at no more risk of going bang than anything. This proved to be the case and there was over a volt on the grid so that got changed.
I still didn't like having the old capacitors in place so checked the V2 and V3 cathode bypass cap and found that to be the leakiest to date.
I'll try and please Mark and leave the rest along but to me it looks like a job half done and I can't help but think it's spoiling the wireless for a quid's worth of caps and five minutes time. We shall see.
Here's another photo which gives a better view of the rewiring and the chassis after a bit of a clean:-
- Joe
As for the electronics, the RF bypass cap caused the AVO Bridge to flash like a strobe. Changing that improved the volume but it still seemed quiet.
I then screwed my courage up to the sticking plaster and tested the UL41 grid with the VVM. I couldn't see it doing any harm as that is isolated so should have been at no more risk of going bang than anything. This proved to be the case and there was over a volt on the grid so that got changed.
I still didn't like having the old capacitors in place so checked the V2 and V3 cathode bypass cap and found that to be the leakiest to date.
I'll try and please Mark and leave the rest along but to me it looks like a job half done and I can't help but think it's spoiling the wireless for a quid's worth of caps and five minutes time. We shall see.
Here's another photo which gives a better view of the rewiring and the chassis after a bit of a clean:-
- Joe
