Hello Rob, if you ever decide to put an insulated floor in then providing there are no sharp protrusions in the concrete surface you could lay a floating floor if you so wish, this would not require any timber battens at all.
Method:
Sweep and hoover floor, then lay polythene DPM, turn up at walls.
Lay slab insulation staight on top right up to walls, fold excsess DPM over the edges of the insulation and over the top a few inches, cut off any excess and tack down with bits of gaffer tape.
Place some 12 mm wooden or plastic spacers on top of the insulation where the insulation butts the longest wall.
Lay flooring chipboard length ways along that wall and butted up against the spacers, PVA glue (not to much) the ends of the joints as you join them, make sure there is a 12 mm gap at the two far ends if they butt up against the returning walls.
Before glues goes off run a string line along the line outside of the boards ( the edge that the next row will join to) align the glued boards dead straight against the string line by packing out out the spacers or reducing there thickness, try and aim for a minimum 8 mm gap or maximum 15 mm gap between the boards and the wall.
Wait for glue to set (1hr or so, longer if colder) then do the next row and so on glueing all edges, stagger joints.
Aim for 8 to 15 mm gap all round the edges where they meet the walls.
If you find the joints are stiff to engage completely but there are no obstructions then you can sprag them in from the opposite wall using an offcut to protect the edge and a couple legths of timber, the other way which we always used on site is to jump up, both feet together and as you come down on the board shuffle both feet forward on the board at impact, your body weight will squeeze the joint up tight.
We always use Celotex/Kingspan foil backed insulation as it is a better type but you can use the cheaper white stuff it will still support a floating floor no problem.
Cover the gap round the walls with standard 18 - 21 mm thick skirting fixed to the wall.
It sounds a lot but for the average garage with materials on site then typically 4 hr max job plus an hour or two to fix the skirting. If fixing skirting then scribe any internal angles and mitre any external ones.
Hope this is of some use, or for other projects maybe.
Lawrence.
Method:
Sweep and hoover floor, then lay polythene DPM, turn up at walls.
Lay slab insulation staight on top right up to walls, fold excsess DPM over the edges of the insulation and over the top a few inches, cut off any excess and tack down with bits of gaffer tape.
Place some 12 mm wooden or plastic spacers on top of the insulation where the insulation butts the longest wall.
Lay flooring chipboard length ways along that wall and butted up against the spacers, PVA glue (not to much) the ends of the joints as you join them, make sure there is a 12 mm gap at the two far ends if they butt up against the returning walls.
Before glues goes off run a string line along the line outside of the boards ( the edge that the next row will join to) align the glued boards dead straight against the string line by packing out out the spacers or reducing there thickness, try and aim for a minimum 8 mm gap or maximum 15 mm gap between the boards and the wall.
Wait for glue to set (1hr or so, longer if colder) then do the next row and so on glueing all edges, stagger joints.
Aim for 8 to 15 mm gap all round the edges where they meet the walls.
If you find the joints are stiff to engage completely but there are no obstructions then you can sprag them in from the opposite wall using an offcut to protect the edge and a couple legths of timber, the other way which we always used on site is to jump up, both feet together and as you come down on the board shuffle both feet forward on the board at impact, your body weight will squeeze the joint up tight.
We always use Celotex/Kingspan foil backed insulation as it is a better type but you can use the cheaper white stuff it will still support a floating floor no problem.
Cover the gap round the walls with standard 18 - 21 mm thick skirting fixed to the wall.
It sounds a lot but for the average garage with materials on site then typically 4 hr max job plus an hour or two to fix the skirting. If fixing skirting then scribe any internal angles and mitre any external ones.
Hope this is of some use, or for other projects maybe.
Lawrence.
