19-12-2011, 05:43 PM
Thanks for your kind comments Colin!
Yes I used a carbide tipped router bit - I don't think it owes me anything - it's only from one of those cheap router bit sets and I've used it to make several comb-jointed boxes, but it seems to soldier on, so may be good for a little while longer. As with the bandsaw, I let the tool decide on the rate of work - I don't force it to do more than it's capable of. And yes, I taped the two indexing panels together, and having accurately marked the holes, supported the two boards on a piece of scrap on the pillar drill and drilled them with a spur drill so that the point can be more accurately placed than an engineering bit, which I'm not keen on using on wood.
I think that routers are one of those tools that we form a love-hate relationship with. You have to treat them with respect, and I've always worn ear defenders when using power tools - the bandsaw, workshop vac, lawnmower, hedge trimmer, and certainly the router. It's important with routers when - for example, cutting a bead on the edge of a piece of timber - to take account of the direction of rotation of the tool. If it's the left-hand edge and the router bit is facing down, with the router hand-held (rather than mouted on a table upside down), the router must be pulled towards oneself so that the bit will cut in the direction of its rotation. However, on the right hand side of the timber, the router is pushed away from oneself. It takes some fathoming out at first, and of course if the router is fitted upside down on a table, the cutter is rotating anti-clockwise when looking down upon it from above. The tool soon let's you know which way it needs to go, as you'll well know Colin!
There are some excellent DVDs on routing techniques, and of course on youtube, which help avoid pitfalls. Of course, routing bakpanels isn't very demanding on the tool or the operator - the work is in making the jig - not using it!
Yes I used a carbide tipped router bit - I don't think it owes me anything - it's only from one of those cheap router bit sets and I've used it to make several comb-jointed boxes, but it seems to soldier on, so may be good for a little while longer. As with the bandsaw, I let the tool decide on the rate of work - I don't force it to do more than it's capable of. And yes, I taped the two indexing panels together, and having accurately marked the holes, supported the two boards on a piece of scrap on the pillar drill and drilled them with a spur drill so that the point can be more accurately placed than an engineering bit, which I'm not keen on using on wood.
I think that routers are one of those tools that we form a love-hate relationship with. You have to treat them with respect, and I've always worn ear defenders when using power tools - the bandsaw, workshop vac, lawnmower, hedge trimmer, and certainly the router. It's important with routers when - for example, cutting a bead on the edge of a piece of timber - to take account of the direction of rotation of the tool. If it's the left-hand edge and the router bit is facing down, with the router hand-held (rather than mouted on a table upside down), the router must be pulled towards oneself so that the bit will cut in the direction of its rotation. However, on the right hand side of the timber, the router is pushed away from oneself. It takes some fathoming out at first, and of course if the router is fitted upside down on a table, the cutter is rotating anti-clockwise when looking down upon it from above. The tool soon let's you know which way it needs to go, as you'll well know Colin!
There are some excellent DVDs on routing techniques, and of course on youtube, which help avoid pitfalls. Of course, routing bakpanels isn't very demanding on the tool or the operator - the work is in making the jig - not using it!
Regards, David.
BVWS Member.
G-QRP Club Member 1339.
'I'm in my own little world, but I'm happy, and they know me here'
BVWS Member.
G-QRP Club Member 1339.
'I'm in my own little world, but I'm happy, and they know me here'
