30-11-2011, 06:37 PM
Very interesting post Colin raising several points worth commeting on!
You mention that most feared of turning tools the 'skew chisel', about which you said 'the only problem with using a skew chisel is the risk of losing a few front teeth'. I lose my nerve before that happens!! As to sharpening jigs, there are several on the market but the're a ridculous price, and I'm sure you favour making your own Colin. There are several designs on internet for excellent easy to make and use jogs. I made this one, which I found very useful:
http://www.turningtools.co.uk/widgets/gr...harpen.pdf
There's another desgn here:
http://www.badgerwoodworks.com/articles-...ening-jig/
And here's a youtube video of one in action:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BCVqWR1FcM0
Robert Sorby make a very useful jig, but it's nearly £90.00:
http://www.stilesandbates.co.uk/product....185/sn/447
I bought one for just ten pounds from someone who was giving up the hobby!
As to sycamore being end reared prevent serious staining, as you say Colin, Lawrence may be able to to expand on that, but as I undestand it, given that the cellular structure of wood can be likened to a bunch of drinking straws, it's considered that standing it on end helps it season quicker. One of our club members used to work for a brewery chain, and the when the little chiller cabinets (a bit like a small fridge that they keep soft drinks in) used to conk out and be scrapped, he used to rescue them and put a little heater and fan in them to convert them into small kiln for drying woodturning blanks. (To slow down he process and prevent cracking, as you know Colin, it's usual to seal the end grain with wax, paint or whatever). You can also soak wood in 'PEG' - Poly Ethylene Glycol - whch displaces the water and stabilises the timber, though I've never used it myself.
A characteistic of sycamore is that whilst it can be bland and uninteresting, it does sometimes have attractive ripples which I believe stem from the tree being stressed by the wind as it grows. This is known as 'fiddle-back' sycamore as it's used for violin backs, or simply 'ripple' sycamore. You're right too about sycamore sometimes having stains as a natural feature. I've attached a few pics of a bowl about 10" diameter and 3" or so deep in ripple sycamore which I recently turned for a chum as a 'thank-you'. You'll see natual staining in the wood, and it's the sort of staining sometimes occurs in Elm too, and is tinged green and much prized for windsor chair seats, but Dutch elm disease (or as the Dutch call it, 'English elm disease'!) has rather put paid to wide widths of elm suitable for windsor chairs. It used to be very commonplace and widely used for coffins. another interesting timber much prized for bespoke furniture is 'olive ash'. It isn't a species of tree - I believe that the 'olive' appearance stem from a disease, and is only apparent after the ash tree has been felled. Maybe Lawrence can comment on that?
I agree with what you say about broadening out the forum beyond radio Colin. It brings a bit of variety and makes a bit of a change from forums in which Bush DAC90As, TR82Cs and R200s crop up with monotonous regularity. I'm not knocking the radios or the posts, but really, is there anything left to say about the ubiquitous DAC90A and its vices and limitations that hasn't yet been said many times over? It's clear from posts on all forums that the achiles heel of restoration is that of finishing woody cabinets to a good standard, and ocasionally, elswhere when threads are started on that topic it has occasionally attracted remarks such as 'I thought forum was about radios - not woodwork' but the two go hand in hand. You only need to see the interest engendered by your posts on the Ekco TV cabinet restoration Colin.
I've been pleased to read your interesting posts on French polishing and finishing of 'woodies', which will hopefully cause others to appreciate that there are alternatives to Danish oil, though I can see the attraction of Dasnish oil as it needs very little skill, and if each coat is allowed to full cure before the next one, buffs up to a nice sheen often preferred to a high gloss finish in a modern setting. But as has been said many times, Danish oil is irrevocable - once it's soaked in, it doesn't simply 'dry' it goes through a chemical change and 'cures' so there's no chance of removing it and getting back to bare timber. The reason that the varnish flakes off woodies is that it's invariably spray applied cellulose lacquer which sits on the surface of the veneer, so when removed, reveals the bare veneer.
Another topic not often explored is that of making replacement backs to original designs.
I've just embarked on making a router jig for cutting slots to make a back for a pre-war Little Maestro. When I succeed, I'll post some pics!
Rambled David!
You mention that most feared of turning tools the 'skew chisel', about which you said 'the only problem with using a skew chisel is the risk of losing a few front teeth'. I lose my nerve before that happens!! As to sharpening jigs, there are several on the market but the're a ridculous price, and I'm sure you favour making your own Colin. There are several designs on internet for excellent easy to make and use jogs. I made this one, which I found very useful:
http://www.turningtools.co.uk/widgets/gr...harpen.pdf
There's another desgn here:
http://www.badgerwoodworks.com/articles-...ening-jig/
And here's a youtube video of one in action:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BCVqWR1FcM0
Robert Sorby make a very useful jig, but it's nearly £90.00:
http://www.stilesandbates.co.uk/product....185/sn/447
I bought one for just ten pounds from someone who was giving up the hobby!
As to sycamore being end reared prevent serious staining, as you say Colin, Lawrence may be able to to expand on that, but as I undestand it, given that the cellular structure of wood can be likened to a bunch of drinking straws, it's considered that standing it on end helps it season quicker. One of our club members used to work for a brewery chain, and the when the little chiller cabinets (a bit like a small fridge that they keep soft drinks in) used to conk out and be scrapped, he used to rescue them and put a little heater and fan in them to convert them into small kiln for drying woodturning blanks. (To slow down he process and prevent cracking, as you know Colin, it's usual to seal the end grain with wax, paint or whatever). You can also soak wood in 'PEG' - Poly Ethylene Glycol - whch displaces the water and stabilises the timber, though I've never used it myself.
A characteistic of sycamore is that whilst it can be bland and uninteresting, it does sometimes have attractive ripples which I believe stem from the tree being stressed by the wind as it grows. This is known as 'fiddle-back' sycamore as it's used for violin backs, or simply 'ripple' sycamore. You're right too about sycamore sometimes having stains as a natural feature. I've attached a few pics of a bowl about 10" diameter and 3" or so deep in ripple sycamore which I recently turned for a chum as a 'thank-you'. You'll see natual staining in the wood, and it's the sort of staining sometimes occurs in Elm too, and is tinged green and much prized for windsor chair seats, but Dutch elm disease (or as the Dutch call it, 'English elm disease'!) has rather put paid to wide widths of elm suitable for windsor chairs. It used to be very commonplace and widely used for coffins. another interesting timber much prized for bespoke furniture is 'olive ash'. It isn't a species of tree - I believe that the 'olive' appearance stem from a disease, and is only apparent after the ash tree has been felled. Maybe Lawrence can comment on that?
I agree with what you say about broadening out the forum beyond radio Colin. It brings a bit of variety and makes a bit of a change from forums in which Bush DAC90As, TR82Cs and R200s crop up with monotonous regularity. I'm not knocking the radios or the posts, but really, is there anything left to say about the ubiquitous DAC90A and its vices and limitations that hasn't yet been said many times over? It's clear from posts on all forums that the achiles heel of restoration is that of finishing woody cabinets to a good standard, and ocasionally, elswhere when threads are started on that topic it has occasionally attracted remarks such as 'I thought forum was about radios - not woodwork' but the two go hand in hand. You only need to see the interest engendered by your posts on the Ekco TV cabinet restoration Colin.
I've been pleased to read your interesting posts on French polishing and finishing of 'woodies', which will hopefully cause others to appreciate that there are alternatives to Danish oil, though I can see the attraction of Dasnish oil as it needs very little skill, and if each coat is allowed to full cure before the next one, buffs up to a nice sheen often preferred to a high gloss finish in a modern setting. But as has been said many times, Danish oil is irrevocable - once it's soaked in, it doesn't simply 'dry' it goes through a chemical change and 'cures' so there's no chance of removing it and getting back to bare timber. The reason that the varnish flakes off woodies is that it's invariably spray applied cellulose lacquer which sits on the surface of the veneer, so when removed, reveals the bare veneer.
Another topic not often explored is that of making replacement backs to original designs.
I've just embarked on making a router jig for cutting slots to make a back for a pre-war Little Maestro. When I succeed, I'll post some pics!
Rambled David!
Regards, David.
BVWS Member.
G-QRP Club Member 1339.
'I'm in my own little world, but I'm happy, and they know me here'
BVWS Member.
G-QRP Club Member 1339.
'I'm in my own little world, but I'm happy, and they know me here'
