13-11-2011, 01:32 PM
I'll answer a couple of questions first, before pressing on with the switch saga.
I didn't try to fire it up 'cause I got just the 'works' from Joe. I don't think he did. I didn't try when I got it because some of the wiring is very fragile. A word of advice to anyone tackling one of these, disconnect the interconnecting wires before removing the 'works' from the cabinet. That way it should survive while you work on the mechanics etc. So, no, as yet I don't know what state any of the elctronics is in, apart from the valve heaters. I don't expect the Rectifier or the Electrolytics to pose a problem, but as Col says, the Speaker Field Coil may be a problem, but that bridge is to be crossed later.
I decided I'd tackle the switch first as, based on Col's experience, it's something of a make or break exercise. Getting it wrong could reduce the set to scrap. I've got the technology to make a new one - Lathe, Milling Machine, Rotary Table etc - but just like Col's setup it's all a bit brutal for this size of job.
So, to battle. I'll divide this story into several Posts to avoid having too many pictures in each one:-
Step one was to remove the 9 tiny (8BA?) countersunk screws which attach the LH Panel to the partitions. That didn't do a great deal because the Panel is still attached by the box which holds the coupling coils. Actually I suppose it's the other way round in that the Panel supports the box.
So, Step two was to remove the 3 Cheese Head screws that hold the box to the Panel. That freed things up a lot more but there were still a couple of wires restricting rotation of the panel.
So, Step 4 was to disconnect the Capacitor on the RHS of the Panel - it was already floating as one end is returned to a Panel screw. There was no mechanical joint to the wire so I cut the wire to allow the wire to be withdrawn.
Step 5 was to unsolder the other wire that passes thrugh the panel. This one goes to the Reaction Cap as far as I can see.
Step 6 was to gently pull the wires through the holes and fold down the Panel, and there was the switch
It was possible to rotate it with a big pair of pliers as Col found. It's so stiff that the detent at the front doesn't do anything. I'm pondering again 'cause I'm not entirely sure how to get the shaft out. I can't remove the Bakelite panel as one of the screws is behind the other side panel. It won't come out of the back 'cause the valve screen is in the way. Anyway, I've applied more Plusgas and knocked off to write this and have some lunch.
More later.
Alan
I didn't try to fire it up 'cause I got just the 'works' from Joe. I don't think he did. I didn't try when I got it because some of the wiring is very fragile. A word of advice to anyone tackling one of these, disconnect the interconnecting wires before removing the 'works' from the cabinet. That way it should survive while you work on the mechanics etc. So, no, as yet I don't know what state any of the elctronics is in, apart from the valve heaters. I don't expect the Rectifier or the Electrolytics to pose a problem, but as Col says, the Speaker Field Coil may be a problem, but that bridge is to be crossed later.
I decided I'd tackle the switch first as, based on Col's experience, it's something of a make or break exercise. Getting it wrong could reduce the set to scrap. I've got the technology to make a new one - Lathe, Milling Machine, Rotary Table etc - but just like Col's setup it's all a bit brutal for this size of job.
So, to battle. I'll divide this story into several Posts to avoid having too many pictures in each one:-
Step one was to remove the 9 tiny (8BA?) countersunk screws which attach the LH Panel to the partitions. That didn't do a great deal because the Panel is still attached by the box which holds the coupling coils. Actually I suppose it's the other way round in that the Panel supports the box.
So, Step two was to remove the 3 Cheese Head screws that hold the box to the Panel. That freed things up a lot more but there were still a couple of wires restricting rotation of the panel.
So, Step 4 was to disconnect the Capacitor on the RHS of the Panel - it was already floating as one end is returned to a Panel screw. There was no mechanical joint to the wire so I cut the wire to allow the wire to be withdrawn.
Step 5 was to unsolder the other wire that passes thrugh the panel. This one goes to the Reaction Cap as far as I can see.
Step 6 was to gently pull the wires through the holes and fold down the Panel, and there was the switch
It was possible to rotate it with a big pair of pliers as Col found. It's so stiff that the detent at the front doesn't do anything. I'm pondering again 'cause I'm not entirely sure how to get the shaft out. I can't remove the Bakelite panel as one of the screws is behind the other side panel. It won't come out of the back 'cause the valve screen is in the way. Anyway, I've applied more Plusgas and knocked off to write this and have some lunch.
More later.
Alan
