07-11-2011, 07:39 PM
Hi,
Having had a bit of time to think about this Steve I think you could make a decent restoration job of this by taking your time and stripping using chemical stripper. Clean off and sand then if required apply stain. Let the stain fully dry then give it four good brush coats of shellac; allow to dry in a warm place overnight; lightly flat with 600 grit abrasive paper then apply another four coats of shellac and allow to dry overnight.
This should build up a decent thickness of shellac but the shellac must be applied quickly and as evenly as possible to save considerable time in flatting. Take great care not to cut through to bare timber whilst flatting.
If the shellac is still a bit too thin give it another four coats and allow to dry. With this amount of shellac added leave it well alone for a few days then gently flat with 600 grit lubricated with talcum powder again being extremely careful not to cut through.
Once you have a really nice matt finish have a good look at the surface; if it appears too scratched then carefully flat using finer abrasive paper like 1,000 grit wet or dry. Assuming all is well then go over lightly with "0000" grade wire wool lubricated with liquid paraffin working "with the grain" to finish it off.
This sounds like a lot of work but you only get out what you put in; this method worked a treat recently when I restored a wooden clock case; I found that this gave a beautiful satin finish without having to use a traditional French polishing rubber on the case door.
I'm used to applying shellac with a brush and if it goes on well the flatting can be omitted going straight to using wire wool and liquid paraffin to bring up a surface which is a delight to touch.
I've never tried to re-finish a cabinet that has been oiled onto bare wood as the oil whether Danish or Linseed will penetrate the surface and could possibly bleed through at a later date so I would not take on a previously oiled cabinet.
I've successfully used linseed oil to bring the colour out after staining but only used it sparingly and then buffed it to remove any excess before letting the cabinet stand for a few days. I never use linseed oil on the sole of the French polishing rubber as it can become trapped then bleed out leaving a sticky residue at a later date.
I've included a couple of pictures just for interest and to show something not seen before. I completely re-veneered the clock main case using Australian Walnut veneer and it looks most strange once applied but after staining; French polishing then hand rubbing using 0000 wire wool lubricated with liquid paraffin this is the finish I obtained; the clock main case was originally finished to a mirror gloss but it looked ghastly in this situation hence I experimented and ended up with a lovely satin finish that is much more in keeping and a pure delight to touch.
My offer still stands Steve but I would however like to encourage you to have a go at this restoration as I'm sure you have sufficient determination to see it through and as the process outlined is very basic just requiring time and patience I'm sure you are up to the job.
Whatever you do decide to do Steve good luck; take your time and enjoy yourself. Succeed with this one and you will do more.
Kind regards, Col.
New Walnut veneer. Hand rubbed using 0000 wire wool lubricated with liquid paraffin.
Having had a bit of time to think about this Steve I think you could make a decent restoration job of this by taking your time and stripping using chemical stripper. Clean off and sand then if required apply stain. Let the stain fully dry then give it four good brush coats of shellac; allow to dry in a warm place overnight; lightly flat with 600 grit abrasive paper then apply another four coats of shellac and allow to dry overnight.
This should build up a decent thickness of shellac but the shellac must be applied quickly and as evenly as possible to save considerable time in flatting. Take great care not to cut through to bare timber whilst flatting.
If the shellac is still a bit too thin give it another four coats and allow to dry. With this amount of shellac added leave it well alone for a few days then gently flat with 600 grit lubricated with talcum powder again being extremely careful not to cut through.
Once you have a really nice matt finish have a good look at the surface; if it appears too scratched then carefully flat using finer abrasive paper like 1,000 grit wet or dry. Assuming all is well then go over lightly with "0000" grade wire wool lubricated with liquid paraffin working "with the grain" to finish it off.
This sounds like a lot of work but you only get out what you put in; this method worked a treat recently when I restored a wooden clock case; I found that this gave a beautiful satin finish without having to use a traditional French polishing rubber on the case door.
I'm used to applying shellac with a brush and if it goes on well the flatting can be omitted going straight to using wire wool and liquid paraffin to bring up a surface which is a delight to touch.
I've never tried to re-finish a cabinet that has been oiled onto bare wood as the oil whether Danish or Linseed will penetrate the surface and could possibly bleed through at a later date so I would not take on a previously oiled cabinet.
I've successfully used linseed oil to bring the colour out after staining but only used it sparingly and then buffed it to remove any excess before letting the cabinet stand for a few days. I never use linseed oil on the sole of the French polishing rubber as it can become trapped then bleed out leaving a sticky residue at a later date.
I've included a couple of pictures just for interest and to show something not seen before. I completely re-veneered the clock main case using Australian Walnut veneer and it looks most strange once applied but after staining; French polishing then hand rubbing using 0000 wire wool lubricated with liquid paraffin this is the finish I obtained; the clock main case was originally finished to a mirror gloss but it looked ghastly in this situation hence I experimented and ended up with a lovely satin finish that is much more in keeping and a pure delight to touch.
My offer still stands Steve but I would however like to encourage you to have a go at this restoration as I'm sure you have sufficient determination to see it through and as the process outlined is very basic just requiring time and patience I'm sure you are up to the job.
Whatever you do decide to do Steve good luck; take your time and enjoy yourself. Succeed with this one and you will do more.
Kind regards, Col.
New Walnut veneer. Hand rubbed using 0000 wire wool lubricated with liquid paraffin.
Happiness is a wreck of a cabinet to restore.
